How to Winterize a Camper: Protecting Your Home-on-Wheels from Freezing Temperatures

Winter's approach brings a peculiar ritual to RV parks and driveways across North America. As leaves turn golden and morning frost begins painting windshields, thousands of camper owners face the same pressing question: what exactly needs to happen before Old Man Winter arrives in earnest? The answer involves more than just draining some water and calling it good. Winterizing a camper properly means understanding the vulnerable points where ice can wreak havoc, recognizing that a single frozen pipe can transform your beloved escape pod into an expensive repair project come spring.

I've watched too many fellow RVers learn this lesson the hard way. One memorable incident involved a neighbor who thought running antifreeze through the system was enough—until he discovered his water heater had cracked like an egg, courtesy of expanding ice. The repair bill? Let's just say it would have funded several nice camping trips.

Understanding Your Camper's Water System

Before diving into the actual winterization process, you need to grasp how water moves through your RV. Picture it as a miniature version of your home's plumbing, but with thinner walls and more exposure to temperature extremes. Fresh water enters through either your city water connection or gets pumped from your freshwater tank. From there, it travels through a maze of pipes to reach your faucets, toilet, shower, and water heater.

The complexity varies wildly between models. My first travel trailer had a straightforward setup that I could winterize in under an hour. The Class A motorhome I later owned? That beast had water lines running through compartments I didn't even know existed until I started tracing pipes with a flashlight.

What makes RV plumbing particularly vulnerable is its location. Unlike household pipes buried in insulated walls, RV water lines often run through unheated storage compartments or along the undercarriage. Some manufacturers seem to delight in routing pipes through the most exposed areas possible—I swear they must have meetings about it.

The Great Antifreeze Debate

Let me settle something right now: automotive antifreeze will destroy your RV's plumbing system and potentially poison you. RV antifreeze is a completely different animal—it's non-toxic, typically pink, and tastes vaguely sweet (not that I recommend sampling it). The propylene glycol-based formula won't harm you, your pets, or the environment when used properly.

You'll find two main approaches to winterization: the antifreeze method and the compressed air method. Both have passionate advocates, and I've used both extensively. The antifreeze method involves pumping the pink stuff through every water line until it flows from every faucet. It's thorough, relatively foolproof, and gives you visual confirmation that protection has reached each fixture.

The compressed air method uses an air compressor to blow water out of the lines. It's faster, doesn't require buying gallons of antifreeze each year, and leaves no residual taste come spring. However, it demands more finesse and carries a higher risk of missing hidden low spots where water can pool.

Draining: The Foundation of Protection

Regardless of which method you choose, proper draining forms the cornerstone of winterization. Start with the easy stuff—your holding tanks. Open the black tank valve first (always black before gray, trust me on this), then the gray tank. Let them drain completely, then flush both tanks if your RV has that capability.

The freshwater tank requires more attention than many people realize. Simply opening the drain valve isn't enough; water loves to hide in the bottom corners. I rock my trailer side to side—gently—to encourage stubborn puddles toward the drain. Some folks drive around the block with the valve open, though this strikes me as overkill unless you're dealing with a particularly stubborn tank design.

Don't forget the water heater. This step trips up more people than any other, probably because it requires actually locating the water heater (often hidden behind an exterior access panel) and removing the drain plug. Pro tip: the drain plug often doubles as the anode rod. If yours looks like a corroded mess, winter prep provides the perfect opportunity for replacement.

Here's something manufacturers don't advertise: many water heaters have a bypass kit that needs to be engaged before winterizing. Miss this step, and you'll pump expensive antifreeze into a six or ten-gallon tank that doesn't need it. The bypass typically consists of three valves that redirect water around the heater. The configuration varies, but you're essentially creating a detour that connects the hot and cold lines while isolating the tank.

The Antifreeze Method: Pink Protection

If you're going the antifreeze route, you'll need between two and four gallons for most travel trailers and small motorhomes. Larger rigs might require six gallons or more. Buy extra—running out mid-process ranks among RVing's more frustrating experiences.

Most modern RVs include a winterization kit: a tube that connects to the water pump inlet, allowing you to draw antifreeze directly from the bottle. If yours lacks this feature, you can install one for about twenty bucks, or pour antifreeze into the freshwater tank (though this wastes product and makes spring sanitization more involved).

Start by closing all faucets and ensuring the water heater bypass is engaged. Connect your winterization hose to the pump inlet and drop the other end into your antifreeze container. Turn on the water pump and open the cold side of the nearest faucet. You'll hear the pump labor initially as it pulls antifreeze up the tube. Once pink liquid flows steadily, move to the hot side, then proceed to the next fixture.

Work methodically through every water outlet: kitchen faucet, bathroom faucet, shower, toilet, and any exterior shower or kitchen connections. Don't forget less obvious outlets like the washing machine connection (if equipped) or the ice maker line. Each fixture needs antifreeze flowing until the liquid runs bright pink—pale pink suggests dilution from residual water.

The toilet requires special attention. After running antifreeze through by holding down the flush pedal, pour additional antifreeze directly into the bowl. Some goes down the drain to protect the valve seals, while leaving a cup or two in the bowl prevents seal damage from drying out over winter.

The Compressed Air Alternative

The blow-out method appeals to my minimalist side. No antifreeze to buy, no pink residue come spring, no chemical taste to flush out. But it demands respect for the pressure you're introducing to plastic pipes and fittings designed for 40-60 PSI water pressure, not 120 PSI shop air.

You absolutely need a pressure regulator. Set it to 30 PSI for most systems, never exceeding 50 PSI even if some internet cowboy swears by higher pressure. The blow-out plug screws into the city water inlet and accepts a standard air compressor quick-connect fitting.

The process mirrors the antifreeze method: start with one faucet open, introduce air pressure, and work through each fixture until only air emerges. The difference lies in the details. You'll need to cycle between hot and cold multiple times at each location, as air follows the path of least resistance and might miss pockets of water on the first pass.

I spend extra time on low-lying fixtures and any visible pipes that dip below the main runs. These spots love to collect water that freezes into expensive problems. Some RVers combine methods, using compressed air for the main blow-out followed by antifreeze in the traps and toilet—a belt-and-suspenders approach that makes sense in extreme climates.

Protecting the Extras

Winterization extends beyond the basic plumbing system. Your water filter needs to come out—freezing destroys filter media faster than you can say "warranty void." The ice maker, if you have one, requires either disconnection or its own dose of antifreeze, depending on the design.

Outside showers hide in compartments that seem designed to trap water. After running antifreeze or air through the fixtures, I remove the shower head and let any trapped water drain. The compartment door should stay cracked open for ventilation—moisture trapped in small spaces breeds mold faster than a forgotten sandwich in July.

Speaking of moisture, don't neglect your RV's interior climate. A small dehumidifier or moisture-absorbing products prevent the musty smell that greets too many owners come spring. I prefer the renewable silica gel units that you can recharge in your home oven, though the calcium chloride buckets work fine for smaller spaces.

The Often-Forgotten Details

Washing machines in RVs need special consideration. Run a cycle with antifreeze instead of water, ensuring protection reaches the pump and internal hoses. The discharge hose should get its own antifreeze treatment—pour some down the standpipe or wherever your washer drains.

P-traps under sinks need antifreeze even if you've blown out the lines. Water sitting in these curved pipes will freeze and crack the trap, leading to sewer gas entering your RV. A cup of antifreeze in each drain provides simple insurance.

Your freshwater hose needs draining and indoor storage. I've seen hoses split like overcooked sausages after being left connected all winter. The pressure regulator and water filter housing should join the hose in your basement or garage—brass fittings survive freezing, but the plastic bodies often don't.

Regional Considerations and Timing

Winterization timing varies dramatically by region. My friends in Minnesota start thinking about it in early September, while folks in South Texas might never need it at all. The general rule: winterize before the first hard freeze, defined as temperatures staying below 32°F for several hours.

But here's where local knowledge trumps general rules. Elevation changes everything. I've seen October snow in Colorado campgrounds while the front range enjoys 70-degree weather. Coastal areas bring their own challenges—salt air accelerates corrosion on exposed fittings, making thorough flushing even more critical.

Some snowbirds practice partial winterization, protecting the RV while still using it occasionally. This typically involves adding tank heaters, keeping the furnace running on low, and using antifreeze in the drains while relying on bottled water for drinking and cooking. It works, but requires vigilance and reliable power.

Spring Revival Considerations

Thinking about de-winterization during the winterization process sounds backwards, but it makes spring easier. I attach notes to fixtures reminding myself of any special steps taken. That bypass valve configuration that seems obvious in October becomes a mystery in April.

Take photos of your water heater bypass valve positions, any winterization kit connections, and anything else you might forget. Future you will appreciate current you's foresight when trying to remember whether that middle valve should point up or down.

Cost Versus Consequence

Professional winterization typically runs $100-150 at most RV dealers. Given that a single cracked pipe or damaged water heater can cost ten times that amount, it's reasonable insurance for those uncomfortable with DIY maintenance. However, the process isn't particularly difficult once you understand your system.

I've winterized everything from pop-up campers to 45-foot motorhomes. The basics remain consistent; only the scale changes. That said, I still encounter the occasional surprise—like the time I discovered a secondary water pump hidden behind a basement panel, quietly full of water and ready to crack.

Final Thoughts on Frozen Pipes and Peace of Mind

Winterizing your camper represents more than just seasonal maintenance. It's an investment in future adventures, a hedge against expensive repairs, and honestly, a chance to become more intimate with your RV's systems. Each year, the process becomes faster as familiarity replaces uncertainty.

The first time takes patience. You'll probably use more antifreeze than necessary, double-check every step, and still worry you've missed something. That's normal and far better than the alternative—explaining to your significant other why the spring camping trip budget just went to replacing burst pipes.

Remember that winterization isn't just about preventing freeze damage. It's also an opportunity for inspection. While crawling around with antifreeze or compressed air, you might notice that slow leak that's been dampening the storage compartment, or discover mouse damage to insulation before it becomes a bigger problem.

Some RVers treat winterization as a necessary evil, rushing through the steps to get it over with. I've learned to see it differently. It's a ritual that marks the transition between camping seasons, a chance to thank your RV for the memories it provided, and prepare it for hibernation. Come spring, when that first faucet flows clear and strong, you'll appreciate the time invested in proper protection.

Whether you choose antifreeze or compressed air, whether you DIY or pay for professional service, the key is thoroughness. Water expands roughly 9% when it freezes—enough to split copper pipes, crack plastic fittings, and ruin your spring camping plans. But with proper preparation, your camper will emerge from winter ready for new adventures, none the worse for its cold-weather slumber.

The satisfaction of opening your RV in spring to find everything exactly as you left it—no burst pipes, no musty smells, no expensive surprises—makes every minute spent winterizing worthwhile. Trust me, your future self will thank your present self for taking the time to do it right.

Authoritative Sources:

Woodall's RV Owner's Handbook. Woodall Publications Corp, 2019.

National RV Dealers Association. "RV Service Technician Certification Program Manual." RVDA Publications, 2020.

Recreation Vehicle Industry Association. "RV Maintenance and Safety Guide." RVIA Technical Publications, 2021.

Moeller, Bill, and Jan Moeller. RV Repair & Maintenance Manual. McGraw-Hill, 2018.

United States Environmental Protection Agency. "Drinking Water Contaminants and Their Effects." www.epa.gov/ground-water-and-drinking-water, 2021.

National Association of RV Parks and Campgrounds. "Seasonal RV Storage Guidelines." ARVC Press, 2020.