How to Wash Shoes in Washer: The Real Story Behind Getting Your Kicks Clean
I'll never forget the first time I threw my favorite running shoes in the washing machine. It was 2018, I'd just finished a particularly muddy trail run, and those $150 Nikes looked like they'd been through a war zone. My roommate walked in just as I was about to hit the start button and practically screamed, "You're going to destroy them!"
Turns out, we were both kind of right.
The thing about washing shoes in a machine is that it's simultaneously one of the most effective ways to clean them and potentially one of the quickest ways to ruin them. After years of experimenting (and yes, destroying a few pairs along the way), I've learned that success comes down to understanding which shoes can handle the spin cycle and which ones absolutely cannot.
The Shoes That Love a Good Spin
Canvas sneakers are the golden children of machine washing. Your classic Converse, Vans, or any basic canvas tennis shoe can usually handle the washer like a champ. The fabric is durable, the construction is simple, and there's not much that can go catastrophically wrong. I've washed my beat-up Chucks probably fifty times over the years, and they're still kicking.
Athletic shoes made from synthetic materials generally do well too, but here's where it gets tricky. Those expensive running shoes with all the fancy tech? The ones with gel cushioning, air pockets, or specialized foam? You're rolling the dice. I learned this the hard way when my Brooks Ghost 12s came out of the washer with the midsole partially detached. The heat and agitation can break down the adhesives that hold these complex shoes together.
Leather shoes, suede, or anything with delicate embellishments should never see the inside of your washing machine. Period. I don't care what that Pinterest hack told you – water and leather are not friends, especially when combined with heat and violent spinning.
The Pre-Wash Ritual That Actually Matters
Before you even think about loading those shoes, there's prep work to be done. First, bang them together outside to knock off dried mud and debris. I used to skip this step until I found a small rock had chipped the inside of my washer drum. Expensive lesson learned.
Remove the laces and insoles. This isn't just about getting them cleaner (though it does help). Laces can wrap around the agitator or get tangled in ways that stress the eyelets. Insoles often contain materials that don't play nice with water – some have cardboard components that will disintegrate, while others might shrink or warp.
Here's something most people don't realize: that pre-treatment matters more than the actual wash. I use an old toothbrush and a mixture of dish soap and baking soda to scrub the really grimy spots. Focus on the rubber soles and any fabric areas with visible stains. This five-minute effort makes the difference between shoes that come out actually clean versus shoes that just got wet.
Loading the Machine (Or: How Not to Sound Like a Thunderstorm)
The biggest mistake people make is tossing shoes directly into an empty washer. The banging is not only annoying to everyone in a three-block radius, but it's also terrible for both your shoes and your machine. The violent tumbling can deform the shoes and potentially damage the washer's drum.
I always wash shoes with towels – old ones that I don't mind getting a bit dirty. Usually four to six bath towels create enough buffer. Some people swear by putting shoes in a pillowcase or mesh laundry bag first, and while this can help, I've found it's not strictly necessary if you have enough towels in there.
Water temperature is crucial. Hot water might seem like it would clean better, but it's actually your enemy here. Heat breaks down adhesives, warps synthetic materials, and can cause colors to bleed. Cold water only. Always. I don't care if those shoes went through a mud run followed by a dip in a septic tank – cold water is the rule.
The Detergent Dilemma
Less is more when it comes to detergent. I use about half of what I'd use for a regular load of laundry. Too much soap creates excess suds that are hard to rinse out completely, leaving your shoes feeling stiff or leaving white residue marks when they dry.
Skip the fabric softener entirely. It can leave a coating on athletic shoes that actually reduces their breathability. Learned this one after wondering why my running shoes felt suffocating after a wash – turns out fabric softener and moisture-wicking materials are mortal enemies.
For particularly smelly shoes (we've all been there), adding a cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle works wonders. Some people recommend baking soda in the wash, but I've found it doesn't dissolve well in cold water and can leave gritty residue.
The Cycle Selection That Won't Destroy Everything
If your machine has a delicate or gentle cycle, use it. If not, the shortest regular cycle will do. The key is minimizing the time your shoes spend getting knocked around. I set my machine to the lowest spin speed possible – high-speed spinning is where a lot of shoe casualties occur.
Never, ever use the heavy-duty cycle. I don't care how dirty those shoes are. The aggressive agitation will literally beat them to death. I once watched a friend's cheap sneakers essentially disintegrate during a heavy-duty cycle. The rubber sole separated completely, and the upper looked like it had been through a blender.
The Drying Game (Where Most People Mess Up)
Here's where patience becomes a virtue. The dryer is not your friend. I know it's tempting, especially when you need those shoes for tomorrow morning's workout, but heat is the ultimate shoe destroyer. The high temperatures can melt adhesives, warp soles, shrink materials, and generally turn your shoes into expensive garbage.
Instead, stuff them with newspaper or paper towels (change these out after a few hours as they get saturated) and let them air dry. I position mine near a fan or in a well-ventilated area. In summer, I'll put them outside in the shade – never in direct sunlight, which can fade colors and crack materials.
The drying process usually takes 24-48 hours, depending on the shoe construction and humidity. Yes, it's a long time. Plan accordingly. I've tried all the "quick dry" hacks – hair dryers, boot dryers, even putting them on top of the refrigerator where it's warm. Most of these methods risk damage, and none of them actually save that much time.
When Things Go Wrong (Because Sometimes They Do)
Even with perfect technique, sometimes shoes come out of the washer looking... different. Slight warping is common and often resolves as the shoes dry and you wear them again. But if the soles are separating or the upper is pulling away from the midsole, you might need shoe glue to salvage them.
I've successfully reattached partially separated soles using Shoe Goo or similar adhesives. The key is catching it early and being patient with the repair. Clamp or rubber band the shoe to hold everything in place while the glue cures.
If your white shoes come out with a yellowish tinge (oxidation from the wash), a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide applied to the affected areas and left in sunlight can help restore them. This actually works better than most commercial whiteners I've tried.
The Alternatives Nobody Talks About
Sometimes the washing machine just isn't the answer. For expensive athletic shoes or anything you're nervous about, hand washing is safer and often just as effective. Fill a basin with cold water and a small amount of detergent, use a soft brush to scrub, and rinse thoroughly. It takes more effort, but you have complete control over the process.
There's also the freezer method for killing odor-causing bacteria without any washing at all. Put shoes in a plastic bag and freeze them overnight. It won't remove stains, but it can help with smell between proper cleanings.
My Personal Take on the Whole Thing
After years of washing shoes in machines, I've come to believe it's a bit like cooking – you can follow all the rules and still end up with different results based on your specific shoes and machine. I've had $20 canvas shoes survive dozens of washes and $200 running shoes fall apart after one.
The truth is, washing shoes in a machine is always going to be a calculated risk. But for most everyday sneakers, the convenience outweighs the minimal risk when done properly. Just don't expect miracles, and definitely don't try it with your wedding shoes or those limited-edition Jordans.
What really matters is understanding your specific shoes and being realistic about what machine washing can and can't do. It's great for general cleaning and deodorizing, but it won't fix structural problems or make five-year-old shoes look brand new.
And please, for the love of all that is holy, never wash shoes with Velcro in the same load as delicate fabrics. That's a mistake you only make once.
Authoritative Sources:
American Cleaning Institute. The Cleaning Encyclopedia. 3rd ed., American Cleaning Institute, 2021.
Breslin, Susannah. The Complete Guide to Fabric and Leather Care. Storey Publishing, 2019.
Consumer Reports. "How to Clean Sneakers and Canvas Shoes." Consumer Reports Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs, Consumer Reports Books, 2020, pp. 145-148.
Martin, Andrew. Textile Science and Fabric Care. Fairchild Books, 2018.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. "Safer Choice Standard." EPA.gov, United States Environmental Protection Agency, 2021, www.epa.gov/saferchoice/safer-choice-standard.