How to Wash Cashmere Without Ruining Your Investment (And Why Most People Get It Wrong)

I'll never forget the first time I destroyed a cashmere sweater. It was a beautiful charcoal gray pullover my grandmother had given me – soft as a cloud, probably cost more than my monthly grocery budget. After one misguided trip through the washing machine, it emerged looking like something that would fit a toddler. That expensive mistake taught me everything I needed to know about cashmere care, and honestly, it changed how I think about clothing maintenance entirely.

The thing about cashmere is that it's simultaneously one of the most luxurious and most misunderstood fibers in our closets. People either treat it like spun gold (never washing it, which is actually terrible for the fiber) or they handle it like any other sweater and end up with expensive doll clothes. Neither approach is right.

Understanding What You're Actually Dealing With

Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily raised in Mongolia and China. These goats develop this incredibly fine undercoat to survive brutal winters where temperatures can plummet to -40°F. Each goat produces only about 4 ounces of usable cashmere per year – that's why your sweater costs what it does.

The fibers themselves are remarkable. They're hollow, which gives them incredible insulating properties while remaining lightweight. They're also covered in tiny scales that can lock together when agitated in hot water – that's your shrinkage culprit right there. But here's what most care labels won't tell you: cashmere actually gets softer and more beautiful with proper washing. Those dry-clean-only tags? Often more about liability than necessity.

I spent years believing the dry cleaning myth until a Scottish knitwear designer told me something that blew my mind: "We wash our jumpers in the sink, love. Have done for centuries." She was right. The chemicals used in dry cleaning can actually strip the natural oils from cashmere fibers, making them brittle over time.

The Art of Hand Washing (It's Not What You Think)

Let me walk you through my washing ritual – and yes, I call it a ritual because that's what it becomes when you truly understand the process. First, forget everything you think you know about hand washing. This isn't about aggressive scrubbing or wringing. It's more like giving your cashmere a spa treatment.

Start with cool water – and I mean genuinely cool, not lukewarm. Around 85°F if you want to get technical, but I just test it with my wrist. It should feel refreshing, not cold. Fill your sink or a basin (I use a dedicated plastic tub because I'm particular like that) with enough water to fully submerge your garment.

Now for the soap situation. Please, for the love of all that's holy, don't use regular detergent. I learned this the hard way with a bottle of Tide and a cream-colored cardigan that never recovered. You need something specifically formulated for delicate fibers. I swear by wool wash – the kind without any enzymes or brighteners. Some people use baby shampoo, which works in a pinch, but specialized wool wash is worth the investment. Use about a teaspoon for a sweater, maybe a bit more for a blanket.

Here's where technique matters: add the soap to the water first and swish it around to distribute. Then, turn your cashmere inside out (this protects the surface from any friction) and gently submerge it. Don't dump it in – lower it slowly, letting the water saturate the fibers gradually. This prevents shock to the material.

Let it soak. This is crucial. Five to ten minutes is perfect. The water does the work here, not your hands. If you see dirt releasing into the water, that's normal and good. Resist the urge to agitate.

When time's up, gently squeeze the suds through the fabric. Think of it like kneading bread dough very, very gently. No twisting, no rubbing, just light pressure. Focus on areas that might have absorbed odors – underarms, necklines – but maintain that gentle touch.

The Rinse Cycle Nobody Talks About

Rinsing is where most people mess up their cashmere. You can't just run it under the tap like a dish. The force of running water can stretch the fibers, especially when they're wet and vulnerable.

Lift your garment out carefully, supporting its weight with both hands. Gently squeeze out excess water – again, no wringing. Empty your basin and refill with clean, cool water at the same temperature as before. This temperature consistency is vital. Cashmere fibers can shock just like human hair, and temperature changes cause them to constrict or expand rapidly.

Lower the garment back in and gently press the clean water through. You might need to repeat this process two or three times until the water runs clear. Some people add a capful of white vinegar to the final rinse – it helps remove any soap residue and actually softens the fibers. I do this maybe every third wash.

Drying: Where Dreams Go to Die (Or Thrive)

This is the make-or-break moment. I've seen people do everything right up until this point, then destroy their cashmere in the drying phase.

First, never – and I cannot stress this enough – never hang wet cashmere. The weight of the water will stretch it beyond recognition. I once hung a wet cashmere dress on a hanger and it ended up looking like a medieval tunic by the time it dried.

After the final rinse, gently squeeze out water, then lay the garment flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel up with the cashmere inside, like you're making a burrito. Press down gently to transfer water from the cashmere to the towel. Some people walk on it (seriously), but I find gentle hand pressure works fine.

Unroll and transfer to a dry towel or a mesh drying rack. Here's the crucial part: reshape while damp. Smooth out wrinkles, gently tug the garment back to its original dimensions, make sure the neckline isn't stretched. Cashmere has memory – it'll dry in whatever shape you leave it.

Let it dry flat, away from direct heat or sunlight. Flip it once after a few hours to ensure even drying. Depending on thickness and humidity, this takes anywhere from 24 to 48 hours. Yes, it's a commitment. No, you can't rush it with a hairdryer unless you want cashmere jerky.

Machine Washing: The Controversial Truth

Okay, here's where I might lose some of you. I machine wash some of my cashmere. There, I said it. But before you close this tab in horror, hear me out.

Modern washing machines, especially European models, often have wool or hand-wash cycles that are gentler than actual hand washing. The key is knowing your machine and your cashmere. I'd never machine wash a delicate lace-knit piece or anything vintage. But a sturdy cashmere pullover? With the right precautions, it's absolutely possible.

Turn the garment inside out and place it in a mesh laundry bag – this is non-negotiable. Use cold water, the gentlest cycle available (usually called wool, delicate, or hand-wash), and the slowest spin speed. Add your wool wash to the dispenser. Never use fabric softener – it coats the fibers and ruins their natural properties.

The spin cycle is critical. If your machine allows, reduce it to the minimum or skip it entirely. You want the garment damp, not spun within an inch of its life. Remove immediately when the cycle ends and follow the same flat-drying process.

I've washed the same navy cashmere sweater this way monthly for three years. It's actually softer now than when I bought it. But – and this is important – I tested this method first on a cashmere item I wasn't emotionally attached to. Always test your particular machine and settings before risking your favorites.

Storing and Maintenance Between Washes

Here's something the fashion magazines rarely mention: you shouldn't wash cashmere after every wear. In fact, overwashing is one of the quickest ways to degrade the fibers. Cashmere is naturally antimicrobial and odor-resistant. Unless you've spilled something on it or worn it during a particularly sweaty activity, it probably just needs airing out.

After wearing, hang your cashmere in a well-ventilated area overnight before returning it to storage. Never put it away while it still holds body heat or moisture. I hang mine in my bathroom (not during shower time) because the air circulation is good.

For storage, folding is your friend. Hanging cashmere long-term leads to shoulder bumps and stretched-out garments. Fold carefully, placing tissue paper between folds if you're storing for months. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets help ward off moths – those little demons love cashmere more than we do.

Speaking of moths, let's address the elephant in the room. If you've ever found a hole in your favorite cashmere piece, you know the heartbreak. Prevention is everything. Clean cashmere before storing (moths are attracted to human oils and food particles), use airtight containers for long-term storage, and check stored items periodically.

Pilling, Repairs, and Reality Checks

Pilling is not a sign of poor quality – it's physics. When short fibers work their way out and tangle together, you get pills. It happens to all cashmere eventually, even the $800 sweaters. The difference is how you handle it.

Invest in a cashmere comb or a sweater stone. These tools, when used correctly, remove pills without damaging the underlying fabric. Work in one direction with light pressure. It's meditative, actually – I do my de-pilling while watching TV. Electric fabric shavers work too, but they're riskier. One wrong move and you've shaved a hole.

Small holes can often be repaired with careful darning. I learned this from my grandmother, who could make repairs invisible. YouTube has excellent tutorials if you're not lucky enough to have a grandparent with these skills. For larger damage, find a professional reweaver. Yes, they still exist, usually in larger cities. The cost might surprise you, but it's often worth it for a beloved piece.

The Philosophy of Cashmere Care

After years of caring for cashmere, I've realized it's taught me something larger about consumption and care. When you invest time in maintaining something properly, you develop a different relationship with your possessions. My cashmere pieces aren't just clothes – they're investments that improve with age when treated right.

There's something deeply satisfying about pulling out a ten-year-old cashmere sweater that looks and feels better than the day you bought it. In our disposable culture, this kind of longevity feels almost radical. It's pushed me to buy less but buy better, to choose quality over quantity.

I've also noticed that the ritual of caring for cashmere – the washing, the reshaping, the patient waiting for it to dry – has become a form of meditation. In a world of quick fixes and instant gratification, there's value in slow, careful processes.

Final Thoughts and Hard Truths

Not all cashmere is created equal. The $50 cashmere sweater from a fast-fashion retailer might technically be cashmere, but it's likely made from shorter, coarser fibers that will pill excessively and lose shape quickly. Good cashmere costs money because good cashmere is scarce. If you can only afford one quality piece versus five cheap ones, choose the one.

Also, accept that accidents happen. I've ruined cashmere pieces even with all my knowledge and experience. Sometimes you're tired, sometimes you're distracted, sometimes your partner helpfully throws your hand-wash pile in with the regular laundry. It's clothing, not a sacred relic. Enjoy it, care for it, but don't let fear of ruining it keep you from wearing it.

The most important thing I've learned? Cashmere wants to be washed. It wants to be worn. It wants to be loved and used, not preserved in tissue paper. When you understand how to care for it properly, you can enjoy it without anxiety. That's when cashmere becomes what it should be – not a burden of maintenance, but a daily luxury that connects you to centuries of textile tradition.

So go ahead, wash that cashmere sweater that's been sitting in your closet because you're afraid to ruin it. Follow these steps, trust the process, and discover what I did – that caring for beautiful things properly is its own reward. Your cashmere will thank you by getting softer, fitting better, and lasting longer than you ever imagined possible.

Authoritative Sources:

Franck, Richard W. Silk, Mohair, Cashmere and Other Luxury Fibres. Woodhead Publishing, 2001.

Kvavadze, Eliso, et al. "30,000-Year-Old Wild Flax Fibers." Science, vol. 325, no. 5946, 2009, pp. 1359-1359.

Parkes, Clara. The Knitter's Book of Wool: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding, Using, and Loving this Most Fabulous Fiber. Potter Craft, 2009.

Sparkes, Matthew. The Clothing Care Handbook: How to Clean, Iron, Mend, and Store Your Clothes. Firefly Books, 2018.

Von Bergen, Werner. Wool Handbook Volume 1. 3rd ed., Interscience Publishers, 1963.