How to Take Care of Calla Lilies: Mastering the Art of Growing These Elegant Beauties
Somewhere between the drama of orchids and the simplicity of daisies lies the calla lily—a flower that manages to be both sophisticated and surprisingly forgiving. These aren't actually lilies at all, which is perhaps the first misconception worth clearing up. Native to the marshy regions of South Africa, Zantedeschia (their proper botanical name) have fooled gardeners for centuries with their lily-like appearance and their ability to thrive in conditions that would make actual lilies throw in the towel.
I've been growing calla lilies for nearly two decades now, and if there's one thing I've learned, it's that these plants have personality. Some years they bloom like they're auditioning for a botanical magazine cover; other years they sulk and produce nothing but leaves. The trick isn't just following a set of rules—it's understanding what makes these plants tick.
The Foundation: Soil and Planting
Let me paint you a picture of the perfect calla lily home. These plants evolved in wetlands, which means they have champagne tastes when it comes to moisture but beer budgets when it comes to drainage. Sounds contradictory? Welcome to the wonderful world of calla lily cultivation.
The soil mixture I've settled on after years of experimentation is roughly 60% good quality potting soil, 20% peat moss (or coconut coir if you're environmentally conscious), and 20% perlite. Some gardeners swear by adding a handful of sand, but I've found this can make the mixture too heavy, especially if you're dealing with clay-based garden soil.
When planting rhizomes—those knobby, potato-like structures that calla lilies grow from—orientation matters more than you'd think. The smooth side goes down, the bumpy side with the growing points faces up. Plant them about 3-4 inches deep, though I've noticed the white varieties prefer slightly shallower planting, maybe 2-3 inches. Why? I honestly don't know, but after losing a batch of expensive white callas to rot one spring, I started planting them higher and haven't looked back.
Spacing is another consideration that trips up newcomers. These plants need room to breathe—about 12-18 inches apart for the larger varieties. Yes, they look lonely at first, like teenagers at their first dance, but by midsummer they'll fill out nicely.
Water: The Make-or-Break Factor
If calla lilies could talk, their first word would be "water." Their second would probably also be "water." These plants are thirsty, but not in the way you might expect.
During the growing season, I water my callas deeply twice a week, sometimes three times if we're experiencing one of those scorching summers that seem to be getting more common. The soil should feel like a wrung-out sponge—moist but not waterlogged. I learned this lesson the hard way when I first started growing them, thinking that because they're bog plants, they'd appreciate sitting in water. Three weeks later, I was dealing with a fungal nightmare that would make a mycologist weep.
Here's something most care sheets won't tell you: calla lilies actually communicate their water needs through their leaves. When they're thirsty, the leaves develop a slight curl at the edges, almost like they're trying to conserve moisture. When they're overwatered, the leaves turn a sickly yellow-green, starting from the bottom up. It's subtle, but once you learn to read these signs, you'll rarely go wrong.
The dormant season is a different story entirely. Once the foliage starts dying back (usually in fall), I gradually reduce watering until I'm barely moistening the soil once every two weeks. Think of it as putting the plant into hibernation mode.
Light Requirements: Finding the Sweet Spot
Calla lilies have what I call "Goldilocks syndrome" when it comes to light—not too much, not too little, but just right. In my experience, they perform best with morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in hotter climates.
I've grown them in full sun (they survived but looked perpetually stressed), deep shade (all leaves, no flowers), and everything in between. The sweet spot seems to be 4-6 hours of direct sunlight, preferably in the morning when the rays are gentler. If you're growing them indoors, a south-facing window with sheer curtains works beautifully.
One interesting observation: the darker colored varieties—those deep purples and near-blacks—seem to tolerate more sun than their lighter cousins. Whether this is due to some protective pigmentation or just coincidence, I can't say, but it's been consistent in my garden.
Feeding Your Callas: A Balanced Approach
Fertilizing calla lilies is where a lot of gardeners go overboard. These plants are like that friend who gets tipsy on half a glass of wine—a little fertilizer goes a long way.
During the growing season, I use a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) diluted to half strength every two weeks. Some years I've experimented with higher phosphorus formulas to encourage blooming, but honestly, I haven't noticed much difference. What does make a difference is consistency. Sporadic feeding produces sporadic results.
I've also had good luck with slow-release granular fertilizers worked into the soil at planting time. The 3-month formulas seem to match the calla lily's growth cycle perfectly. Just remember to water thoroughly after application—fertilizer burn on calla lily leaves is not a pretty sight.
Temperature and Climate Considerations
Calla lilies are more cold-hardy than many people realize, but they're not exactly Arctic explorers either. In USDA zones 8-10, they can stay in the ground year-round with some mulch protection. Anywhere colder, and you'll need to dig up those rhizomes or grow them in containers.
The ideal temperature range for active growth is between 60-75°F. They can tolerate higher temperatures (I've seen them survive 95°F days), but they'll need extra water and will likely go dormant earlier. On the cold end, they can handle brief dips to about 25°F if well-mulched, though I wouldn't push it.
Here's a trick I learned from an old-timer at my local garden club: if you're in a borderline zone, plant your callas near a south-facing wall or large rocks. The thermal mass provides just enough extra warmth to get them through those iffy winters.
Common Problems and Real Solutions
Let's talk about what can go wrong, because pretending calla lilies are problem-free would be dishonest. The most common issue I encounter is soft rot, usually caused by overwatering or poor drainage. The rhizome literally turns to mush, and there's no coming back from that. Prevention is your only defense here.
Aphids seem to have a particular fondness for calla lily flowers. I've tried everything from insecticidal soap to introducing ladybugs. What works best for me? A strong spray of water every few days during aphid season. It's simple, chemical-free, and surprisingly effective.
Yellow leaves can indicate several issues: overwatering, underwatering, nutrient deficiency, or natural dormancy. Context is everything. If it's midsummer and your plant is otherwise healthy, check your watering. If it's fall, the plant is probably just getting ready for its winter nap.
Spider mites can be problematic, especially on indoor plants. The first sign is usually a fine webbing on the undersides of leaves. Neem oil works, but you need to be persistent—every 3-4 days for at least two weeks.
Container Growing: A Viable Alternative
Not everyone has the perfect garden spot for calla lilies, and that's where container growing shines. I actually prefer growing some of my fancier varieties in pots—it gives me more control over their environment.
Choose a container at least 12 inches wide and equally deep. Drainage holes are non-negotiable. I've had good success with both plastic and terracotta, though terracotta dries out faster (which can be good or bad depending on your watering habits).
The beauty of container growing is mobility. Too much sun? Move them. Unexpected frost? Bring them in. Plus, when they go dormant, you can simply stick the whole pot in a cool, dry place until spring.
Propagation: Making More Magic
Once you've successfully grown calla lilies, you'll want more. It's inevitable. The good news is that propagation is straightforward.
Division is the easiest method. In spring, before growth really takes off, dig up the clump and gently separate the rhizomes. Each piece should have at least one growing point. Let the cuts dry for a day before replanting—this reduces the risk of rot.
You can also grow callas from seed, though it's a test of patience. The seeds need to be fresh, and even then, germination is spotty. It'll take 3-4 years before you see flowers, and they might not look like the parent plant. Still, there's something satisfying about raising a plant from seed to bloom.
The Art of Cutting and Display
Calla lilies make exceptional cut flowers, lasting 7-10 days in a vase if treated properly. Cut them early in the morning when stems are full of water. Use a sharp, clean knife and cut at an angle.
Here's a professional florist trick: after cutting, immediately plunge the stems into lukewarm water up to the bloom. Let them drink for at least an hour before arranging. Change the water every other day and recut the stems slightly each time.
Seasonal Care Calendar
Spring is go-time for calla lilies. This is when you plant new rhizomes, divide existing clumps, and start your fertilizing routine. Watch for new shoots—they're surprisingly fast once they get going.
Summer is all about maintenance. Water regularly, deadhead spent blooms, and watch for pests. This is when your callas will be at their showiest.
Fall signals the beginning of dormancy. Reduce watering gradually, stop fertilizing, and let the foliage die back naturally. In cold climates, dig up rhizomes after the first frost.
Winter is rest time. Store rhizomes in a cool, dry place (40-50°F is ideal) in barely moist peat moss or sawdust. Check monthly for rot or excessive drying.
Final Thoughts
Growing calla lilies successfully is less about following rigid rules and more about developing an intuition for what your plants need. They're communicative plants if you learn their language—drooping when thirsty, yellowing when waterlogged, reaching when they need more light.
After all these years, I still get a thrill when those first shoots emerge in spring. There's something almost magical about watching a knobby rhizome transform into an elegant plant crowned with those distinctive, sculptural blooms. Sure, they can be a bit temperamental, and yes, you'll probably kill a few before you get the hang of it (I certainly did). But once you understand their rhythms and requirements, calla lilies become remarkably reliable garden companions.
The key is to start simple. Get a few basic white callas, master their care, then branch out into the more exotic colors and varieties. Before you know it, you'll be the one giving advice to nervous newcomers at the garden center, sharing the secrets of these not-quite-lilies that have captured gardeners' hearts for generations.
Authoritative Sources:
Armitage, Allan M. Herbaceous Perennial Plants: A Treatise on Their Identification, Culture, and Garden Attributes. 3rd ed., Stipes Publishing, 2008.
Bryan, John E. Bulbs. Revised ed., Timber Press, 2002.
Ogden, Scott, and Lauren Springer Ogden. Plant-Driven Design: Creating Gardens That Honor Plants, Place, and Spirit. Timber Press, 2008.
"Zantedeschia." Pacific Bulb Society, Pacific Bulb Society, pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zantedeschia.
"Calla Lily Production." University of Florida IFAS Extension, University of Florida, edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP159.