How to Regrout Tile: The Real Story Behind Making Your Bathroom Look New Again

I've regrouted more tile than I care to remember. Started with my own bathroom about fifteen years ago when the grout looked like it had been through a war zone – cracked, stained, and harboring who knows what kind of microscopic life forms. Since then, I've helped countless friends and family members tackle this job, and I've learned that while everyone talks about the technical steps, nobody really prepares you for what you're actually getting into.

Regrouting isn't just about scraping out old stuff and squeezing in new stuff. It's a meditation on patience, a test of your knees and back, and sometimes a journey into questioning why you didn't just hire someone. But here's the thing – when you finish, when you step back and see those crisp, clean lines transforming a tired space into something that looks professionally done, you understand why people become oddly passionate about grout.

The Truth About When You Actually Need to Regrout

Most people wait way too long. They see a little crack and think, "Eh, it's fine." Then water starts seeping behind the tiles, and suddenly you're dealing with mold, loose tiles, and a much bigger headache. I learned this the hard way in my first apartment when what started as discolored grout turned into having to replace half the shower wall.

The signs are pretty obvious once you know what to look for. Crumbling grout that comes out when you run your finger along it. Dark stains that won't budge no matter how much you scrub. Cracks that seem to grow wider every time you look at them. And my personal favorite – that spongy feeling when you press on the grout lines, which usually means water has already started its destructive work behind the scenes.

But here's something contractors won't tell you: sometimes what looks like failing grout is actually just dirty grout. I once spent three hours removing grout from a friend's kitchen backsplash before realizing a good steam cleaning would have done the trick. Now I always test a small area with a grout cleaner and a stiff brush first. If it comes clean, congratulations – you just saved yourself a weekend of work.

Getting Your Head (and Tools) Right

The mental preparation is almost as important as the physical prep. This isn't a two-hour project, despite what some YouTube videos suggest. Plan for a full day if you're doing a small bathroom, maybe two if you're tackling a larger area or if you're the type who takes coffee breaks every hour (no judgment – I'm that type).

Tool-wise, you'll need a grout removal tool, and this is where people usually mess up. Those manual scrapers they sell at hardware stores? They work, technically, but using one is like trying to dig a swimming pool with a spoon. I finally broke down and bought an oscillating multi-tool with a grout removal blade, and it changed everything. Yes, it's an investment, but your sanity and your knees will thank you.

You'll also need a grout float (get a good one with a comfortable handle), a large grout sponge (not the cheap ones that fall apart), several buckets for water, rubber gloves that actually fit, and knee pads. I cannot stress the knee pads enough. I did my first regrouting job without them and couldn't walk properly for three days.

For the grout itself, sanded versus unsanded is the eternal debate. The rule of thumb is sanded for gaps wider than 1/8 inch, unsanded for narrower gaps. But honestly? I've used sanded grout on 1/16 inch gaps when that's all I had on hand, and the world didn't end. The grout police didn't show up at my door. Just don't use unsanded on wide gaps – it'll shrink and crack.

The Removal: Where Dreams Go to Die

Removing old grout is where most people realize they've made a terrible mistake. It's tedious, dusty, and surprisingly physical. The first time I did it, I started with enthusiasm, carefully scraping each line. Four hours later, I was covered in grout dust, had finished about six square feet, and was seriously considering just moving to a new house instead.

The key is finding your rhythm. With a power tool, it's all about the angle – too steep and you'll chip the tile, too shallow and you'll just skate over the surface. I like to work in sections, maybe three feet by three feet, completely clearing one area before moving on. This gives you a sense of progress and a place to rest your eyes on something finished when the rest looks like a disaster zone.

Depth matters more than most people realize. You want to remove at least two-thirds of the old grout depth, but honestly, I go for complete removal when possible. Yes, it takes longer, but new grout adheres better to the sides of the tile than to old grout. Think of it like painting – you wouldn't paint over peeling paint and expect good results.

One trick I learned from an old-timer: after you think you've removed enough grout, vacuum out the joints with a shop vac, then run a thin screwdriver along each line. If you hit solid grout anywhere, keep digging. Those hidden chunks are what cause new grout to fail prematurely.

Mixing and Application: The Art Nobody Talks About

Mixing grout seems simple – add water, stir, apply. But the consistency is everything, and the instructions on the bag are more like suggestions. You want the texture of thick peanut butter, not soup and not concrete. I always mix less than I think I need because grout sets up faster than you expect, especially on hot days or if you're working in a room with good airflow.

Here's where I differ from conventional wisdom: I don't use the drill mixer attachment everyone recommends. I mix by hand with a margin trowel. Takes longer? Sure. But you can feel the consistency better, and you're less likely to whip air into the mix, which weakens the grout. Plus, no splatter on the walls.

The actual application is where you find your zen or lose your mind. Work diagonally across the tiles, really packing the grout into the joints. Don't just skim the surface – push hard, work it in from multiple angles. I've seen too many jobs fail because someone was gentle with the grout float. This isn't the time for delicacy.

Small sections are your friend. Maybe four square feet at a time, depending on temperature and humidity. Any bigger and the grout starts setting before you can clean it properly. I learned this doing a large floor where I got ambitious, grouted half the room, then spent hours trying to clean dried grout haze off the tiles. Never again.

The Cleaning Dance

Cleaning excess grout is an art form that nobody properly explains. Too soon and you'll pull grout out of the joints. Too late and you'll be scraping dried grout off tiles for hours. The sweet spot is usually 10-15 minutes after application, but it varies with temperature, humidity, and the specific grout you're using.

The two-bucket method is non-negotiable. One bucket for rinsing your sponge, one with clean water for the final wipe. Change the water frequently – I mean every few square feet. Dirty water just spreads grout haze around, and you'll be cleaning that film off the tiles for weeks.

The motion matters too. First pass: diagonal to the grout lines, light pressure, just removing the bulk. Second pass: following the grout lines to shape them, barely any pressure. Third pass: diagonal again with a barely damp sponge for final cleanup. Some people stop here, but I always do a fourth pass with a microfiber cloth about an hour later to catch any haze before it fully sets.

The Waiting Game and Final Touches

Curing time is where impatience kills good grout jobs. The bag says 24 hours before light use, 72 before full use. I say double those times if you can. Grout continues to strengthen for weeks, and those first few days are critical. I've seen beautiful grout jobs ruined because someone couldn't wait to take a shower.

Sealing is the step everyone skips and then wonders why their grout looks dingy after six months. Wait at least 48 hours after grouting (I prefer a full week), then apply a penetrating sealer. Not the cheap stuff – get a good fluoropolymer-based sealer. Yes, it costs more than the grout itself, but it's the difference between regrouting again in two years or enjoying clean grout lines for a decade.

Application technique for sealer matters too. Those foam brush applicators they sell are okay for floors, but for walls, I prefer a small artist's brush. More control, less waste, and you can really work it into the grout lines. Two thin coats beat one thick coat every time.

The Reality Check

Let me be honest about something the DIY shows don't mention: regrouting is hard on your body. My first big job, I couldn't straighten my back properly for days. Now I take breaks every hour, stretch constantly, and don't try to be a hero by doing an entire bathroom in one go.

The cost savings of DIY are real – a professional regrouting job can run $500-$2000 depending on the size and location. Doing it yourself might cost $50-$150 in materials and tools. But factor in your time, the learning curve, and the very real possibility you might need to redo sections if you're learning as you go.

Some tiles are also more forgiving than others. Ceramic and porcelain are pretty bulletproof – hard to damage while removing grout. Natural stone is trickier, and glass tiles are downright nerve-wracking. I once chipped an expensive glass tile in a friend's kitchen and spent two weeks tracking down a replacement. Now I tape off glass and natural stone tiles before starting.

When to Wave the White Flag

There are times when regrouting isn't the answer. If tiles are loose, if there's obvious water damage behind them, or if the substrate is failing, you need more than new grout. I've started several regrouting jobs only to discover bigger problems lurking underneath.

Showers are particularly tricky. If you see any signs of water damage – soft spots in the wall, mold that keeps coming back, tiles that sound hollow when tapped – stop and reassess. Water damage doesn't fix itself, and new grout over a failing substrate is just postponing the inevitable.

The Satisfaction Factor

Despite all my complaining, there's something deeply satisfying about regrouting. Maybe it's the transformation – taking something that looked beyond help and making it look new. Maybe it's the meditative quality of the work once you find your rhythm. Or maybe it's just the knowledge that you've extended the life of your tile by years with your own hands.

I still remember finishing that first bathroom, standing back, and thinking "I did that." The grout lines were crisp and uniform, the tiles looked brighter, and the whole room felt cleaner. My wife was impressed, which, let's be honest, was half the motivation.

These days, I actually enjoy regrouting. Not in a "can't wait to spend my weekend scraping grout" way, but in a "this is a skill I've mastered" way. Each job teaches you something new, whether it's a better way to hold the float or the perfect water-to-grout ratio for your climate.

The best advice I can give? Start small. Do a backsplash or a small bathroom floor before tackling a full shower. Learn how the tools feel in your hands, how the grout behaves, how your body responds to the work. And remember – even professional tile setters had to regrout their first job sometime. The only difference is they've made all the mistakes already.

Just don't forget the knee pads. Seriously.

Authoritative Sources:

Byrne, Michael. Ceramic Tile: Selection and Installation. Taunton Press, 2005.

Meehan, Dennis. Tile Your World: John Bridge's New Tile Setting Book. McGraw-Hill, 2008.

National Tile Contractors Association. NTCA Reference Manual. National Tile Contractors Association, 2019.

Nordstrom, Joe. Setting Tile. Taunton Press, 2011.

Tile Council of North America. TCNA Handbook for Ceramic, Glass, and Stone Tile Installation. Tile Council of North America, 2021.