How to Pit Cherries Without Losing Your Mind (Or Your Fingers)
Cherry season arrives like a fleeting romance—intense, sweet, and gone before you know it. Every summer, millions of home cooks face the same crimson challenge: transforming a bowl of perfect cherries into pie-ready fruit without turning their kitchen into what looks like a crime scene. The art of pitting cherries has frustrated bakers since time immemorial, yet mastering this skill opens doors to homemade cherry clafoutis, fresh preserves, and pies that would make your grandmother weep with joy.
I've been pitting cherries for over two decades, and I still remember my first attempt. Armed with nothing but a paring knife and misplaced confidence, I managed to mangle about three pounds of cherries into something resembling cherry soup. The juice splattered across my white shirt looked like abstract art, and my fingernails stayed purple for days. Since then, I've learned that pitting cherries isn't just about removing stones—it's about understanding the fruit's anatomy, choosing the right method for your purpose, and accepting that some juice casualties are inevitable.
The Cherry Conundrum
Before diving into techniques, let's talk about why cherry pitting feels like such a Herculean task. Cherries are deceptive little fruits. They look innocent enough, but their pits cling to the flesh with surprising tenacity. The stone sits dead center, surrounded by juice-filled cells just waiting to explode at the slightest provocation. Unlike peaches or plums, where the pit practically falls out, cherry pits seem personally offended by removal attempts.
The size ratio doesn't help either. A cherry pit takes up roughly 10-15% of the fruit's volume, leaving precious little room for maneuvering. Add the fact that most recipes call for pounds of pitted cherries, and you're looking at a repetitive task that can test anyone's patience. I once timed myself pitting cherries for a batch of jam—it took 45 minutes to process three pounds. That's a lot of time to contemplate life choices while your fingers turn increasingly purple.
Tools of the Trade
Over the years, I've tried every cherry pitting method known to humankind. Some work brilliantly, others belong in the Museum of Kitchen Failures. Let me save you some experimentation.
The classic cherry pitter remains the gold standard for most home cooks. These handheld devices look like aggressive hole punchers and work on a simple principle: position cherry, squeeze handle, eject pit. The good ones have a splatter guard (trust me, you want this feature) and a container to catch the pits. I've owned the same OXO cherry pitter for fifteen years, and despite looking battle-worn, it still performs admirably. The key is finding one with a sharp plunger that cleanly pushes through the fruit rather than crushing it.
But here's something most people don't realize: not all cherry pitters are created equal. The cheap ones you find at discount stores often have dull plungers that mash rather than pierce. I learned this the hard way when I bought a $3 pitter at a garage sale. It turned my beautiful Bing cherries into something resembling cherry puree. Spend the extra ten dollars on a quality tool—your cherries (and sanity) will thank you.
For those processing large quantities, the multiple-cherry pitter changes everything. These contraptions can pit six cherries simultaneously, turning an hour-long task into a 20-minute endeavor. They're particularly popular among jam makers and pie enthusiasts who measure their cherry needs in gallons rather than cups. The downside? They take up considerable storage space and cost significantly more than handheld models. I borrowed one from a neighbor once and was impressed by the efficiency, though cleaning all those moving parts afterward dampened my enthusiasm.
The MacGyver Methods
Not everyone owns a cherry pitter, and honestly, you don't always need one. Some of the most effective pitting methods require nothing more than common household items and a bit of ingenuity.
The paper clip method has saved many a spontaneous cherry pie. Unfold a large paper clip, leaving one end curved. Insert the curved end into the cherry where the stem was attached, hook it under the pit, and pull. It's surprisingly effective, though slower than a dedicated tool. I discovered this technique during a vacation rental stay where the kitchen was equipped with everything except the one tool I needed. Necessity truly is the mother of invention.
My personal favorite improvised method involves a chopstick and an empty wine bottle. Place the cherry on the bottle's mouth and push the chopstick through from the stem end. The pit drops into the bottle while the cherry flesh remains relatively intact. This method works best with firm cherries—overripe ones tend to collapse. Plus, you get the satisfaction of hearing each pit clink into the bottle, a oddly satisfying sound that makes the task feel like a game.
The straw method gained internet fame a few years back, and while it works, I find it wasteful. You push a sturdy straw through the cherry, and the pit pops out the other end. The problem? Most straws aren't quite sturdy enough, leading to bent straws and frustrated cooks. Metal straws work better, but then you're essentially using an expensive, reusable version of a cherry pitter. Still, in a pinch, it does the job.
Sweet vs. Sour: A Pitting Perspective
Here's something rarely discussed: sweet cherries and sour cherries require different handling approaches. Sweet cherries like Bing, Rainier, and Lambert have firmer flesh that holds up well to aggressive pitting. You can be somewhat cavalier with your technique without destroying the fruit's structure.
Sour cherries, particularly Montmorency and Morello varieties, tell a different story. Their softer flesh and higher juice content make them prone to mushiness. When I pit sour cherries, I work more gently, using a sharp pitter and accepting that some juice loss is inevitable. The payoff comes in the kitchen—sour cherries make the most incredible pies and preserves, their tartness balancing sugar in ways sweet cherries never could.
I learned this distinction the hard way during my first attempt at making cherry bounce, a colonial-era cordial. The recipe called for sour cherries, but I figured sweet would work just as well. The resulting drink was cloyingly sweet, lacking the complex flavor profile that makes cherry bounce so special. Now I know better—respect the cherry variety and adjust your technique accordingly.
The Professional Approach
Commercial operations pit cherries at mind-boggling speeds using specialized equipment. I once toured a cherry processing plant in Michigan during harvest season. The sight of thousands of cherries racing through mechanical pitters at 30 cherries per second was both mesmerizing and slightly terrifying. These machines use precisely calibrated plungers and optical sensors to ensure each cherry is properly positioned before pitting.
What struck me most was the attention to cherry orientation. The machines position each cherry with the stem scar facing up, ensuring the pit exits cleanly without tearing the fruit. This same principle applies to hand pitting—always insert your tool where the stem attached for the cleanest results. It's a small detail that makes a significant difference in the final product's appearance.
Preserving Pitted Cherries
Once you've conquered the pitting process, proper storage becomes crucial. Fresh pitted cherries are highly perishable, their exposed flesh inviting oxidation and decay. If you're not using them immediately, a few strategies can extend their usability.
For short-term storage (1-2 days), place pitted cherries in an airtight container lined with paper towels. The towels absorb excess juice, preventing the bottom cherries from becoming soggy. I learned this trick from a pastry chef who insisted that soggy cherries ruin pie filling consistency. She was right—the difference in texture is noticeable.
Freezing offers the best long-term solution. Spread pitted cherries in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze until solid. Then transfer to freezer bags, removing as much air as possible. This method prevents the cherries from freezing into an impenetrable block. I keep several bags in my freezer year-round, ready for winter baking projects when fresh cherries are just a summer memory.
Some people add sugar or lemon juice before freezing, but I prefer freezing them plain. This gives me flexibility—I can use them in savory applications like cherry-balsamic reduction for duck or in sweet preparations without worrying about pre-added sugar throwing off my recipes.
The Mess Management
Let's address the elephant in the room: cherry pitting is messy. No matter how careful you are, juice will splatter. I've tried every trick to minimize the mess, from pitting cherries inside a large bowl to wearing an apron that covers everything but my face. Here's what actually works:
First, accept that some mess is inevitable. Wear dark clothing or something you don't mind staining. Cherry juice is notorious for its staying power—I have dish towels with permanent pink splotches as battle scars from particularly vigorous pitting sessions.
Second, work over a rimmed baking sheet. This contains most splatter and makes cleanup easier. Some people suggest pitting cherries under a clear plastic bag, creating a splatter shield. While effective, I find it cumbersome and it obscures your view, leading to missed pits or mangled fruit.
The best mess prevention comes from proper technique. Quick, decisive movements create less splatter than tentative poking. Think of it like ripping off a bandage—hesitation only makes things worse.
Beyond the Basics
Once you've mastered basic pitting, a world of cherry possibilities opens up. Partially pitted cherries, where you remove the pit but keep the cherry largely intact, work beautifully for garnishes and chocolate-dipped treats. I use a small paring knife to cut a slit along one side, then gently work the pit out while maintaining the cherry's shape.
For recipes requiring cherry halves, pit first, then cut. Trying to halve cherries with pits intact usually results in uneven pieces and dulled knives. The pit's hardness can chip ceramic knives and dull steel ones faster than you'd expect.
Some recipes, particularly certain European preserves and liqueurs, call for leaving pits in. The pits add an almond-like flavor from naturally occurring benzaldehyde. However, be cautious—cherry pits contain amygdalin, which converts to cyanide when digested. While you'd need to eat a significant quantity of crushed pits to experience ill effects, it's worth noting for safety.
The Zen of Cherry Pitting
After all these years, I've come to appreciate cherry pitting as more than just prep work. There's something meditative about the repetitive motion, the gradual transformation of whole fruit into recipe-ready ingredients. It's one of those kitchen tasks that can't be rushed or automated at home scale. You simply have to surrender to the process.
I often pit cherries on my porch during summer evenings, watching the sunset while working through pounds of fruit. The juice-stained fingers and occasional errant pit become part of the experience rather than annoyances. It's a connection to generations of cooks who performed this same task, transforming summer's bounty into preserves, pies, and memories.
Cherry pitting might never be anyone's favorite kitchen task, but approaching it with the right tools, techniques, and mindset transforms it from drudgery into something almost pleasant. Almost. Let's not get carried away—it's still a sticky, time-consuming job. But the results—fresh cherry pie, homemade preserves, or simply a bowl of perfectly pitted fruit—make every minute worthwhile.
So next time cherry season rolls around, don't let the pitting process deter you. Grab your tool of choice, put on something you don't mind staining, and dive in. Your future self, enjoying cherry cobbler in the depths of winter, will thank you for the effort.
Authoritative Sources:
Davidson, Alan. The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford University Press, 2014.
McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. Scribner, 2004.
Root, Waverley. Food: An Authoritative and Visual History and Dictionary of the Foods of the World. Smithmark Publishers, 1996.
United States Department of Agriculture. "Cherry Production." National Agricultural Statistics Service, www.nass.usda.gov/Publications/Todays_Reports/reports/cher0621.pdf
University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources. "Cherry: Postharvest Technology Research and Information Center." postharvest.ucdavis.edu/Commodity_Resources/Fact_Sheets/Datastores/Fruit_English/?uid=12&ds=798