How to Paint Bathroom Cabinets Without Losing Your Mind (Or Your Weekend)

I've painted more bathroom cabinets than I care to admit. The first time was in my twenties, in a rental apartment where the landlord had apparently chosen the cabinet color by throwing darts at paint swatches while blindfolded. That honey oak finish haunted my dreams until I finally decided to take matters into my own hands.

What I learned that weekend – and in the dozen or so cabinet painting projects since – is that painting bathroom cabinets is both simpler and more complex than most people realize. It's not rocket science, but there's definitely an art to it. And unlike painting a bedroom wall where you can get away with being a bit sloppy, bathroom cabinets demand precision. They're right there at eye level, getting scrutinized every morning while you brush your teeth.

The Truth About Bathroom Cabinet Painting

Let me be straight with you: those Pinterest transformations that show someone slapping on a coat of chalk paint and calling it a day? They're lying by omission. Sure, your cabinets might look great for about three weeks. Then the humidity from your daily showers starts working its dark magic, and suddenly you're dealing with peeling paint, mysterious bubbles, and a finish that looks like it survived a hurricane.

Bathroom cabinets face unique challenges. They live in a moisture-rich environment, get touched constantly with wet or greasy hands, and endure temperature swings that would make a weather station jealous. This isn't your grandmother's furniture painting project – this is combat painting.

Choosing Your Weapon (And I Mean Paint)

The paint aisle at your local hardware store is where dreams go to die. Standing there, surrounded by a rainbow of possibilities and marketing promises, it's easy to grab whatever's on sale and hope for the best. Don't do this.

For bathroom cabinets, you need paint that can handle moisture like a duck handles water. I learned this the hard way when I used leftover bedroom paint on my first cabinet project. Within six months, it looked like my cabinets had developed a severe case of eczema.

Your best bets are either a high-quality acrylic latex paint with a semi-gloss or satin finish, or if you're feeling fancy (and patient), an oil-based paint. Oil-based paints are tougher and more water-resistant, but they smell like you're huffing chemicals for days and take forever to dry. I once made the mistake of using oil-based paint right before hosting Thanksgiving. My guests were very polite about the fumes, but I noticed they all congregated in the living room, far from the bathroom.

Benjamin Moore Advance is my personal favorite – it's water-based but dries to an incredibly hard, durable finish. It's pricey, but considering you'll be staring at these cabinets every day for years, it's worth not cheaping out. Sherwin-Williams ProClassic is another solid choice, though I find it can be a bit temperamental in humid conditions.

The Prep Work Nobody Wants to Do

Here's where most people fail before they even start. They get excited about the transformation, rush through prep, and end up with a paint job that looks like it was done by a caffeinated squirrel.

First, you need to remove everything. And I mean everything. Take off the doors, remove the drawers, unscrew the hardware. Yes, it's a pain. Yes, your bathroom will look like a construction zone. But trying to paint around hinges is like trying to eat soup with a fork – technically possible, but unnecessarily difficult and messy.

Label everything as you go. I use painter's tape and a Sharpie to mark which door goes where. Trust me, standing there with six identical doors trying to remember which one had that slightly wonky hinge is not how you want to spend your Sunday afternoon.

Cleaning comes next, and this is where things get real. Bathroom cabinets accumulate a special kind of grime – a delightful mixture of hairspray overspray, toothpaste splatter, and mysterious sticky spots that could be anything from spilled mouthwash to hair gel. I use a degreaser like TSP (trisodium phosphate), though lately I've been converted to Krud Kutter, which doesn't require gloves and won't burn through your nasal passages.

The Sanding Debate

Old-school painters will tell you to sand everything down to bare wood. Modern paint manufacturers claim their products bond to anything. The truth, as usual, lies somewhere in the middle.

You don't need to sand down to bare wood unless your existing finish is seriously damaged. But you do need to rough up the surface enough for the new paint to grip. I use 150-grit sandpaper – fine enough not to gouge the wood, coarse enough to actually do something.

For those lazy Sunday painters (no judgment, we've all been there), liquid deglosser is an option. It's basically chemistry doing the work of sandpaper. But in my experience, nothing beats actual sanding for long-term durability. Plus, sanding gives you a chance to really inspect your cabinets and fix any dings or imperfections with wood filler.

Priming: The Step Everyone Wants to Skip

I get it. You've already spent hours prepping, and now I'm telling you to add another step before you can even start painting? But primer is like underwear – technically optional, but you'll be a lot more comfortable with it.

For bathroom cabinets, use a high-quality bonding primer. Zinsser BIN is my go-to for problematic surfaces, though it smells like death and requires good ventilation. KILZ Adhesion is a gentler option that still does the job. Whatever you choose, don't use the primer-and-paint-in-one products for cabinets. They're fine for walls, but cabinets need the real deal.

Apply primer with a foam roller for large flat areas and a high-quality angled brush for details. Cheap brushes leave streaks and shed bristles like a nervous cat. Invest in a good Purdy or Wooster brush – your finish will thank you.

The Main Event: Actually Painting

This is where patience becomes your best friend. Bathroom cabinets aren't a race; they're a marathon. Thin coats are the secret. I know you want to slather on thick paint and be done with it, but that way lies drips, sags, and a finish that looks like cottage cheese.

I use the foam roller and brush combo again here. Roll the large areas, then immediately go over them with the brush to smooth out any bubbles and create a consistent texture. Work in sections – trying to do an entire cabinet face at once is asking for trouble.

Between coats (yes, plural – you'll need at least two, probably three), lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper. This knocks down any raised grain or imperfections and helps the next coat adhere better. It feels counterintuitive to sand something you just painted, but trust the process.

The Waiting Game

Here's the part nobody talks about: the difference between dry and cured. Your cabinets might feel dry to the touch after a few hours, but they're not actually hard yet. Paint needs time to fully cure and reach its maximum durability.

Most paints need at least a week to cure properly, longer in humid conditions. I know it's torture to have your bathroom torn apart for that long, but reinstalling everything too soon is like taking a cake out of the oven early – you'll ruin all your hard work.

During this time, resist the urge to test the finish. I once couldn't help myself and pressed my thumbnail into a door after three days. The dent is still there, mocking me every morning.

Hardware: The Jewelry of Cabinets

While your paint cures, this is the perfect time to address hardware. New knobs and pulls can transform cabinets as much as paint. But here's my controversial opinion: you don't always need new hardware. Sometimes the original stuff is better quality than what you'll find at the big box stores today.

If you're keeping your existing hardware, clean it thoroughly. Soak it in warm soapy water, scrub with an old toothbrush, and polish if needed. For painted-over hardware (a special circle of DIY hell), soak in a slow cooker with water and a splash of dish soap on low heat. The paint will practically slide off.

If you're replacing hardware, measure carefully. Nothing ruins the clean look of freshly painted cabinets like having to drill new holes because you didn't check the spacing. And please, for the love of all that is holy, use a template when drilling. Eyeballing it never ends well.

Reassembly and Reality

When it's finally time to put everything back together, work slowly. This isn't the time to rush. Reinstall doors one at a time, adjusting hinges as needed. Soft-close hinges are worth considering if you're upgrading – they prevent slamming and reduce wear on your new paint job.

Here's something I wish someone had told me early on: your newly painted cabinets will feel slightly tacky for weeks, even after they're cured. This is normal. They'll eventually harden completely, but in the meantime, be gentle. Don't stack things directly on the shelves without shelf liner, and avoid hanging wet towels on the doors.

The Aftermath

Living with freshly painted bathroom cabinets requires a brief adjustment period. You'll notice every imperfection for the first few weeks. That tiny drip you missed, the spot where coverage isn't quite perfect, the door that's hanging a millimeter off. Here's the thing: nobody else will notice. You're the only one who'll get close enough to see these things, and even you'll stop noticing after a month.

What you will notice, every single day, is how much better your bathroom looks. There's something deeply satisfying about transforming a space with your own hands. Every morning when I walk into my bathroom, I still get a little hit of pride seeing those crisp white cabinets that used to be prison-beige.

Final Thoughts

Painting bathroom cabinets isn't just about changing a color. It's about taking control of your space, about refusing to live with someone else's questionable design choices. It's about proving to yourself that you can tackle a real project and come out the other side with something beautiful.

Will it be perfect? Probably not. Will there be moments when you question your sanity, standing there covered in paint dust at 11 PM on a Saturday? Absolutely. But will it be worth it? Every single time.

Just remember: prep work is everything, patience is non-negotiable, and good paint is worth the money. Oh, and maybe warn your houseguests about the fumes if you go with oil-based paint. They'll appreciate it.

Authoritative Sources:

Flexner, Bob. Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish. Fox Chapel Publishing, 2010.

Jones, Kevin. Painting and Decorating: An Information Manual. Wiley-Blackwell, 2003.

Natale, Kathleen. The Right Paint: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing and Using Paint for the Home. Sterling Publishing, 2007.

Peters, Mark. Cabinet Making for Beginners: A Complete Guide. Popular Woodworking Books, 2009.

Rodriguez, Mario. Traditional Finishing Techniques. The Taunton Press, 2002.

Sloan, Annie. Color Recipes for Painted Furniture and More. CICO Books, 2013.

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. "Selecting a Paint for Interior Use." EPA.gov, 2021.