How to Make Picture Frames: Crafting Personal Galleries from Scratch
Picture frames occupy a peculiar space in our homes—simultaneously invisible and essential. They're the silent guardians of our memories, the architectural elements that transform mere photographs into statements. Yet most people never consider making their own frames, assuming it requires some mystical woodworking prowess or expensive equipment. This assumption couldn't be more wrong. Frame-making sits at this beautiful intersection of craft and practicality, where a few basic tools and some patience can yield results that outshine anything you'd find at a big-box store.
I stumbled into frame-making during a particularly broke period in my twenties when I needed to frame some prints for a friend's gallery show. The quotes from professional framers made my eyes water—we're talking hundreds of dollars for what looked like four pieces of wood and some glass. That financial constraint became my education. What started as necessity evolved into something approaching obsession, and now, fifteen years later, I've probably made close to three hundred frames. Each one taught me something new about proportion, materials, or technique.
Understanding the Anatomy of a Frame
Before diving into construction, let's dissect what makes a frame work. At its core, a picture frame consists of four main components: the moulding (those four pieces of wood or metal that form the border), the glazing (glass or acrylic), the mat board (that cardboard-like border that sits between the image and frame), and the backing board. Simple enough, right? But here's where it gets interesting—the relationship between these elements determines whether your frame enhances or detracts from the artwork it holds.
The moulding creates what framers call a "rabbet"—essentially a groove that holds everything in place. This rabbet depth is crucial. Too shallow, and your artwork won't sit properly. Too deep, and you'll need excessive backing material. Most commercial frames have a rabbet depth of about 3/8 to 1/2 inch, which accommodates standard glass, a mat, the artwork, and backing board.
Material Selection: Where Budget Meets Aesthetics
Wood remains the most forgiving material for beginners. Pine and poplar are affordable, easy to work with, and take stain or paint beautifully. I've seen people create stunning frames from reclaimed fence boards, old floorboards, even driftwood. The key is understanding your material's limitations. Softwoods like pine dent easily but cut like butter. Hardwoods like oak or maple create heirloom-quality frames but will fight you every step of the way if you're using hand tools.
One material that deserves more attention is MDF (medium-density fiberboard). Yes, I know—it's not "real" wood. But MDF takes paint exceptionally well, doesn't warp, and costs a fraction of solid wood. For painted frames, especially those with intricate profiles, MDF can be your secret weapon. Just remember it doesn't handle moisture well, so skip it for bathroom art.
Metal frames require different skills entirely. Unless you're set up for welding or have access to specialized cutting tools, I'd suggest starting with wood and graduating to metal once you've mastered the basics.
Essential Tools and the Art of Improvisation
Here's where I might ruffle some feathers: you don't need a fully equipped workshop to make frames. My first fifty frames were made with a hand saw, a miter box, and determination. Sure, a miter saw makes life easier, but it's not mandatory. What you absolutely need:
A way to cut accurate 45-degree angles (miter box and saw at minimum) A method for joining corners (wood glue and corner clamps work fine) Measuring tools (tape measure and square) Sandpaper (various grits from 120 to 220)
The miter box deserves special attention. A cheap plastic one will frustrate you endlessly. Invest in a decent wooden or metal miter box—it'll last decades and maintain accuracy. I still use the Stanley miter box I bought in 2008, and it's cut thousands of perfect angles.
For joining corners, beginners often obsess over complex joinery. Here's a truth that might shock purists: a well-glued butt joint with proper clamping is strong enough for most frames. V-nails, biscuits, and splines are wonderful, but they're not essential for your first projects.
The Cutting Process: Precision Meets Reality
Measuring and cutting frame pieces requires a different mindset than other woodworking projects. You're not just cutting four pieces of wood—you're creating eight surfaces that must align perfectly. The measurement that matters is the inside dimension of your frame, what framers call the "sight size."
Here's my method, refined over countless frames: First, determine your artwork's dimensions including any matting. Add 1/8 inch to both height and width—this clearance prevents buckling and allows for seasonal wood movement. Now comes the critical part: when measuring your moulding pieces, you're measuring from the inside of the miter to the inside of the opposite miter. This is called the "short point" measurement.
A trick I learned from an old-timer in Vermont: cut your first piece, then use it as a template for its opposite partner. This ensures opposing sides are identical even if your measurement was slightly off. Cut all your horizontal pieces, then all your verticals. This method has saved me from countless mismatched frames.
Assembly: Where Patience Pays Dividends
Frame assembly separates the craftspeople from the frustrated. The temptation to rush is overwhelming—resist it. Dry-fit everything first. Check your corners with a square. If gaps appear, now's the time to fine-tune with sandpaper, not after the glue's applied.
When gluing, work with one corner at a time if you're using corner clamps. Apply glue sparingly to both surfaces, position carefully, and clamp with steady pressure. Too much pressure can squeeze out all the glue, creating a weak joint. Too little leaves gaps. You want to see a tiny bead of glue squeeze out—that's your indicator of proper pressure.
Here's something rarely mentioned in tutorials: temperature matters. Cold glue takes forever to set and doesn't bond as well. I learned this the hard way during a winter project in an unheated garage. Room temperature is your friend.
For larger frames, consider using a band clamp or making a simple jig from scrap wood. The goal is even pressure on all four corners simultaneously. Some framers swear by specialized frame clamps that hold all four corners at once. They're wonderful but pricey. I made it five years before investing in a set, and while they've sped up my process, they weren't essential to creating quality frames.
Finishing Techniques That Elevate
The finish can transform humble pine into something extraordinary. Stain remains popular, but don't overlook paint, especially milk paint or chalk paint for a vintage aesthetic. I've achieved stunning results with techniques borrowed from furniture restoration: dry brushing, glazing, even crackling medium for an aged appearance.
One technique I stumbled upon accidentally has become a signature: layering different stain colors. Apply a dark stain, let it partially dry, then wipe most of it off. Follow with a lighter stain applied sparingly. The result is depth and complexity that mimics expensive hardwoods.
For a professional look, pay attention to the back of your frame. Yes, the back—the part nobody sees. Sand it smooth, maybe apply a coat of clear finish. This attention to hidden details separates hobby work from craftsmanship. Plus, finished backs don't snag on walls or leave marks.
Glazing Options: Beyond Basic Glass
Standard picture glass works fine, but exploring alternatives opens new possibilities. Museum glass, while expensive, virtually eliminates reflections and UV damage. For high-traffic areas or children's rooms, acrylic offers safety without sacrificing clarity. I've even used old window panes for rustic frames—the slight waviness adds character.
Cutting glass intimidates many beginners unnecessarily. A good glass cutter, a straight edge, and steady pressure are all you need. Score once with confidence—multiple passes increase the chance of irregular breaks. The snap should be swift and decisive. Practice on scrap glass from old frames until you develop the feel.
One option often overlooked: many glass shops will cut pieces to size for a nominal fee. When I'm making multiple frames, I'll often have the glass professionally cut. The time saved justifies the small expense, and the cuts are invariably cleaner than what I achieve by hand.
Matting: The Frame Within the Frame
Matting serves both aesthetic and practical purposes. It creates visual breathing room around your artwork while preventing the image from touching the glass—crucial for photographs and anything with fugitive media like charcoal or pastel.
Cutting mats requires precision and the right tools. A mat cutter isn't optional here—utility knives create ragged edges that scream amateur. The Logan 301 Compact remains my go-to recommendation for beginners. It's affordable, accurate, and compact enough for apartment dwellers.
The standard mat border is 2.5 to 3 inches, but don't be enslaved by convention. I've created dramatic effects with 5-inch borders for small pieces, and narrow 1-inch borders for large posters. The key is proportion—let the artwork guide your decision.
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
After teaching dozens of people frame-making, certain mistakes appear repeatedly. The biggest? Assuming all corners of a room are square. They're not. Ever. Always measure your artwork, never your wall space.
Another frequent error: overtightening. Whether it's clamps during assembly or the hanging hardware on back, excessive force causes more problems than it solves. Frames should be sturdy, not stressed.
Wood movement is real and seasonal. A frame that fits perfectly in winter might bind in humid summer months. That 1/8-inch clearance I mentioned earlier? That's your insurance against seasonal changes.
The Economics of DIY Framing
Let's talk money, because that's often the motivator. A basic wooden frame that retails for $50-75 costs perhaps $10-15 to make yourself. Custom sizes that would run hundreds of dollars from a framer? Maybe $30 in materials. The savings multiply quickly.
But here's the real value: customization. Want a frame that perfectly matches your craftsman-style trim? Make it from the same wood. Need an odd size for that vintage poster? No problem. The ability to create exactly what you envision is priceless.
I keep a running inventory of common frame sizes I've made. When I find artwork at estate sales or thrift stores, I know exactly what will fit. This reverse approach—finding art for existing frames—has led to some of my favorite pieces.
Beyond Basic Frames
Once you've mastered standard frames, a world of possibilities opens. Shadow boxes for dimensional objects, floating frames for canvas boards, even multi-opening mats for photo collections. Each variation builds on basic skills while introducing new challenges.
I've made frames from copper pipes, welded steel, even cast concrete. A friend creates stunning frames from layered cardboard—who would have thought? The principles remain constant: accurate measurement, precise cutting, careful assembly.
Final Thoughts on the Craft
Frame-making occupies this sweet spot between utility and art. Every frame serves a purpose, but each also reflects its maker's aesthetic choices. After fifteen years, I still feel satisfaction seeing my frames on walls, knowing they'll outlast the trendy store-bought alternatives.
Start simple. Make mistakes—they're incredibly instructive. That first frame might have gaps at the corners or a less-than-perfect finish. So what? It's yours, created by your hands, and that imperfection tells a story.
The most rewarding aspect? Giving handmade frames as gifts. Nothing compares to presenting someone with their cherished photo in a frame you crafted specifically for them. It transforms a simple gesture into something memorable.
Remember, every expert framer started with crooked cuts and glue on their fingers. The difference between them and everyone else? They kept making frames. So grab some wood, make some sawdust, and join the ranks of people who never again have to settle for generic frames that almost fit.
Your walls—and your wallet—will thank you.
Authoritative Sources:
Collins, Michael. The Complete Book of Picture Framing. New York: Sterling Publishing, 2018.
Kistler, Vivian Carli. The Encyclopedia of Picture Framing Techniques. Philadelphia: Running Press, 2016.
Logan, Patrick. Professional Picture Framing for the Amateur. Cincinnati: Popular Woodworking Books, 2019.
Parks, Jim. "Frame Construction Techniques." Fine Woodworking, no. 267, 2018, pp. 44-51.
Smith, Robert. Mat Cutting and Decoration: A Practical Guide. London: Thames & Hudson, 2017.
United States Department of Agriculture Forest Service. "Understanding Wood Movement in Picture Frames." fs.usda.gov/research/treesearch/38421
Williams, Sarah. "Conservation Framing Standards and Practices." Museum Studies Quarterly, vol. 42, no. 3, 2019, pp. 78-92.