How to Make Cornhole Boards: Building Your Own Backyard Game Set from Scratch

I've been building cornhole boards for about twelve years now, and I'll tell you something that might surprise you – the first set I made was an absolute disaster. The boards warped within a month, the legs wobbled like a newborn giraffe, and the surface was so rough that bags would stick to it like velcro. But that catastrophic failure taught me more about woodworking than any YouTube tutorial ever could.

The beauty of making your own cornhole boards isn't just about saving money (though you definitely will). It's about creating something with your hands that brings people together. Every time someone sinks a bag through that hole you cut, there's this weird sense of pride that bubbles up. You made that possible.

The Anatomy of a Proper Board

Before we dive into sawdust and wood glue, let's talk dimensions. The American Cornhole Association has this down to a science: each board needs to be 48 inches long and 24 inches wide. The hole – and this is crucial – sits 9 inches from the top and is exactly 6 inches in diameter. The front of the board rests on the ground while the back rises to 12 inches high.

Now, I know what you're thinking. Why these specific measurements? Well, after building dozens of sets with various "creative" dimensions, I can tell you that these standards exist for a reason. The angle, the distance, the hole size – it all creates that perfect arc when you toss a bag. Mess with the formula, and you'll end up with a game that feels off, like playing basketball on a 9-foot hoop.

Wood Selection: The Foundation of Everything

Here's where most people screw up their first build. They walk into Home Depot, grab the cheapest plywood they can find, and wonder why their boards look like potato chips after the first rainstorm.

You want ½-inch or ¾-inch plywood for the playing surface. I'm partial to birch plywood – it's smooth, takes paint beautifully, and won't break the bank. Some folks swear by oak plywood, but unless you're planning to pass these boards down to your grandchildren, it's overkill.

For the frame, 2x4s are your best friend. Pine works fine, but if you can spring for cedar or pressure-treated lumber, your boards will laugh at weather instead of crying about it. I learned this the hard way when I left a pine set outside during a particularly wet spring in Ohio. By summer, I had two very expensive pieces of firewood.

Tools You'll Actually Need

You don't need a workshop that would make Norm Abram jealous. Here's what you actually need:

A circular saw or miter saw will handle most of your cuts. A jigsaw is essential for cutting that hole – and please, for the love of all that is holy, don't try to cut a perfect circle with a circular saw. I've seen the results. They're not pretty.

You'll need a drill, obviously. A random orbital sander will save you hours of hand-sanding misery. If you don't have one, borrow one. Your forearms will thank me later.

The one tool people always forget? A good compass or a 6-inch hole saw. Drawing that circle freehand is a recipe for a wonky hole that'll haunt you every time you play.

Building the Frame: Where Structure Meets Function

Start with your 2x4 frame. Cut two pieces at 48 inches for the long sides, two at 21 inches for the short sides (remember, we're accounting for the thickness of the long boards). Some builders use fancy joints here – dados, rabbets, whatever. I use simple butt joints with wood glue and 2½-inch deck screws. It's not furniture; it's going to live outside and get beer spilled on it.

Here's a trick I picked up from an old-timer at a tournament in Indiana: before you attach your plywood top, run a bead of construction adhesive along the top of your frame. It adds almost no time to your build but dramatically reduces the chance of your playing surface developing dead spots or hollow sounds.

Cutting and Attaching the Playing Surface

Measure twice, cut once – yeah, yeah, we've all heard it. But seriously, nothing ruins your day faster than realizing you cut your plywood an inch short. Been there, done that, had to make another trip to the lumber yard.

When you're ready to cut the hole, measure 9 inches down from what will be the top of your board, find the center (12 inches from each side), and mark your point. If you're using a hole saw, this part's easy. If you're using a jigsaw, draw your circle carefully and cut just inside the line. You can always sand to perfect; you can't sand wood back on.

Attach the plywood with 1¼-inch screws every 8 inches or so around the perimeter and along the interior frame supports. Don't get screw-happy here – too many and you'll create bumps on your playing surface.

The Leg Situation

This is where cornhole board builders divide into two camps: folding legs or removable legs. I started in the folding camp, using carriage bolts and some complicated hinge system I found online. After the third time those legs folded mid-game (usually when I was winning), I converted to removable legs.

Cut your legs at a 25-degree angle on both ends, making them about 11½ inches long. The angled cuts ensure your board sits at the proper height and angle. Attach them with carriage bolts that you can remove for storage and transport. Some people get fancy with leg brackets or special hardware. I use two carriage bolts per leg and call it good.

Surface Preparation: The Difference Between Good and Great

This is where you separate the casual builders from the obsessed. Sand that playing surface until it's smoother than a politician's promise. Start with 120-grit, move to 220-grit. The bags need to slide consistently, and any rough spots will affect gameplay.

After sanding, wipe down with a tack cloth. Then comes the moment of truth – the first coat of polyurethane. I use water-based poly because it dries faster and doesn't yellow over time. Apply thin coats with a good brush or foam applicator. Three coats minimum, sanding lightly with 320-grit between coats.

Some people stop here. Those people are wrong. The secret to a professional-playing surface is paste wax. After your poly is fully cured (give it at least 48 hours), apply a coat of paste wax, let it haze, and buff it out. Your bags will slide like they're on ice.

Paint and Personalization

This is where you can let your freak flag fly. I've seen everything from simple stains to elaborate airbrush artwork. My personal boards feature the logo of my alma mater on one set and a ridiculous portrait of my dog on another (painted by my artistically gifted neighbor after a few too many beers).

If you're painting, do it before the polyurethane. Use exterior paint or stain, and consider using painter's tape to create clean lines for designs. Pro tip: if you're doing two colors that meet at a line, paint the lighter color first, let it dry completely, tape, then paint the darker color. Pull the tape while the paint is still slightly wet for the crispest lines.

The Bags: Don't Neglect the Other Half

You can buy bags, sure. But if you've come this far, why stop now? Traditional bags use duck cloth on one side and suede on the other, filled with whole kernel corn. Each bag should be 6 inches square and weigh between 15-16 ounces.

I'll be honest – sewing bags is tedious. After making one set, I bought a dozen sets online and never looked back. But if you're determined, use a double-stitched seam and leave a small opening for filling. Use a kitchen scale to measure your corn, and hand-stitch the opening closed with a ladder stitch.

Testing and Adjustments

Your first game on new boards is like a shakedown cruise. You'll notice things. Maybe the boards slide on your patio. Maybe the legs aren't quite even. Maybe the surface is too fast or too slow.

For sliding boards, stick some rubber furniture pads on the bottom. Uneven legs can usually be fixed with a bit of sanding. Surface speed is trickier – too fast and you add another coat of poly, too slow and you might need to sand and start over (or just play with it and adjust your throwing style).

Maintenance and Longevity

Store your boards inside when not in use, or at least under cover. Every few months, reapply that paste wax to keep the surface playing well. Check your leg bolts periodically – they have a tendency to loosen over time.

I've got a set I built eight years ago that still plays like new because I take care of them. I've also got a set I left outside for two winters that now serves as a very warped garden decoration. Learn from my mistakes.

Final Thoughts

Building cornhole boards isn't just about following measurements and making cuts. It's about creating something that becomes part of your social fabric. Every ding, every paint chip, every beer stain tells a story of good times with good people.

My boards have traveled to tailgates, family reunions, and random Tuesday evenings in the backyard. They've been the centerpiece of tournaments where grown adults yell at bags of corn like their lives depend on it. They've been the icebreaker at parties where strangers become friends over discussions of proper throwing technique.

So yeah, you could buy a set online for about the same price as building them. But where's the story in that? Where's the satisfaction of watching someone play on something you created? Where's the excuse to spend a weekend in the garage, covered in sawdust, pretending you're a master craftsman?

Build the boards. Make the mistakes. Learn from them. Then invite some people over and play until the sun goes down. That's what it's really all about.

Authoritative Sources:

American Cornhole Association. Official Rules and Regulations for Cornhole. American Cornhole Association Publications, 2023.

Engler, Nick. The Complete Book of Portable Woodworking Tools. Rodale Press, 2019.

Fine Woodworking Magazine. "Choosing and Using Plywood." The Taunton Press, vol. 287, 2021, pp. 44-51.

Jackson, Albert, and David Day. The Complete Manual of Woodworking. Alfred A. Knopf, 2020.

United States Department of Agriculture Forest Service. Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material. Forest Products Laboratory, 2021. www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr190.pdf