How to Make Cornhole Boards: Building Your Own Backyard Tournament Setup

Somewhere between the clatter of horseshoes and the gentle arc of a beanbag lies America's fastest-growing backyard sport. Walk through any tailgate party, beach gathering, or suburban barbecue, and you'll likely spot those familiar angled boards with holes cut precisely 6 inches in diameter. Yet despite cornhole's explosion in popularity—with the American Cornhole League now broadcasting championships on ESPN—most players have never considered crafting their own boards. There's something deeply satisfying about sinking that perfect airmail shot through boards you've shaped with your own hands, boards that carry the subtle imperfections and character that only handmade items possess.

I stumbled into board-making quite by accident. My neighbor, a retired carpenter named Frank, caught me struggling with a warped set I'd bought online. "Son," he said, peering over his fence with that particular brand of Midwestern directness, "why are you throwing bags at particle board held together with prayers?" That afternoon in his workshop changed my entire perspective on the game. Not only did I learn to build boards that would outlast any store-bought set, but I discovered the meditative process of transforming raw lumber into something that brings people together.

The Anatomy of Excellence

Before diving into sawdust and measurements, let's talk about what makes a competition-worthy cornhole board. The American Cornhole Organization has established specific regulations, but understanding the why behind these standards matters more than memorizing numbers.

A regulation board measures 48 inches long by 24 inches wide—dimensions that weren't arbitrary. This 2:1 ratio creates the perfect throwing challenge at the standard 27-foot distance. The playing surface sits at a 12-degree angle, achieved by having the back edge 12 inches off the ground while the front rests at 3-4 inches. This specific angle took years of refinement; too steep and bags slide off, too shallow and the game loses its strategic element.

The hole itself tells a story. Positioned 9 inches from the top and centered horizontally, its 6-inch diameter represents countless hours of gameplay testing. Early versions of the game used everything from 4-inch to 8-inch holes, but 6 inches emerged as the sweet spot—challenging enough to require skill, forgiving enough to keep casual players engaged.

Wood Selection: The Foundation of Durability

Here's where most DIY tutorials go wrong—they'll tell you to grab any half-inch plywood from the hardware store. But wood selection determines whether your boards last two seasons or two decades.

For the playing surface, I've experimented with everything from basic pine plywood to marine-grade Baltic birch. Cabinet-grade birch plywood (½ inch thick) hits the sweet spot between cost and performance. It's smooth enough for consistent play, durable enough to withstand weather, and takes paint beautifully. Avoid anything with "OSB" or "particle board" in the name—these materials deteriorate faster than a politician's campaign promises.

The frame requires different thinking. While 2x4s are the traditional choice, I've had better luck with 2x3s for the frame rails. They're lighter, easier to handle, and plenty strong when properly assembled. For the legs, nothing beats good old 2x4s—preferably kiln-dried to prevent warping.

One autumn, I made the mistake of using pressure-treated lumber for the entire frame. The boards played fine initially, but as the wood dried, it twisted like a pretzel. Lesson learned: save pressure-treated wood for ground contact only.

Tools and Materials: Setting Yourself Up for Success

You don't need a fully equipped workshop, but certain tools make the difference between frustration and satisfaction. Here's what I consider essential:

Power Tools:

• Circular saw (or miter saw if you have one)
• Jigsaw for cutting the hole
• Drill with bits and driver attachments
• Random orbital sander (trust me, hand-sanding is medieval torture)

Hand Tools:

• Tape measure (the 25-foot variety gives you options)
• Pencil (keep several handy)
• Speed square
• Clamps (you can never have too many)
• Compass for marking the hole

Materials for One Set:

• 1 sheet of ½" cabinet-grade plywood
• 4 pieces of 2x3 @ 8 feet long
• 2 pieces of 2x4 @ 8 feet long
• Wood glue
• 1¼" and 2½" deck screws
• Sandpaper (120 and 220 grit)
• Wood filler
• Primer and paint
• Polyurethane finish

The Build Process: Where Planning Meets Reality

Start by cutting your plywood. Each board needs a 24" x 48" piece. Most home centers will make these cuts for you—swallow your pride and let them. Their panel saws cut straighter than any circular saw guide.

Now for the frames. Cut your 2x3s to create a rectangular frame that fits snugly under your plywood. You'll need two 48" pieces and two 21" pieces per board (the 21" accounts for the thickness of the long pieces). Here's where I differ from most plans—I cut a 45-degree bevel on each end instead of simple butt joints. Yes, it's more work, but the resulting frame looks professional and holds together better.

Before assembly, dry-fit everything. This isn't being paranoid; it's being smart. I once glued an entire frame together before realizing I'd cut one rail an inch short. That mistake cost me an afternoon and a trip back to the lumber yard.

When you're satisfied with the fit, apply wood glue to all joints and clamp the frame together. While the glue sets, pre-drill pilot holes for your screws. This prevents splitting and ensures everything pulls together tightly. Use 2½" screws for the frame corners.

Attaching the plywood top requires patience. Apply a bead of glue around the entire frame top, then carefully position your plywood. Start screwing from the center outward, using 1¼" screws every 8 inches around the perimeter and across the center support. This prevents bubbling and ensures solid contact.

Creating the Perfect Hole

Cutting the hole separates the rookies from the veterans. Mark the center point (12 inches from each side, 9 inches from the top). Using a compass—or a string tied to a pencil if you're feeling rustic—draw a 6-inch diameter circle.

Before cutting, drill a starter hole inside your circle large enough for your jigsaw blade. Cut slowly, following slightly inside your line. You can always make the hole bigger, but you can't make it smaller. Sand the edge smooth, rounding it slightly. Sharp edges eat through bags faster than teenagers through pizza.

Legs: The Engineering Challenge

The legs prove trickier than most people expect. Each board needs two legs that fold flat for storage yet provide rock-solid support during play. Cut your 2x4s to 11½ inches long. The attachment point is crucial—16 inches from the back edge works perfectly.

I use carriage bolts for the pivot point, which allows the legs to fold completely flat against the frame. Add a support block on the frame where the leg contacts it when extended. This prevents the leg from rotating past the correct angle and takes stress off the bolt.

Some builders add complicated leg-locking mechanisms. After years of playing, I've found that gravity and proper geometry work just fine. If your legs are cut correctly and attached at the right point, they'll stay put during play.

Surface Preparation: The Difference Maker

This is where patience pays dividends. Start with 120-grit sandpaper, working the entire surface until it's uniformly smooth. Fill any voids or screw holes with wood filler, let dry, and sand again. Move to 220-grit for the final pass.

Here's my secret weapon: between sandings, wipe the surface with a barely damp cloth. This raises the grain slightly. When you sand again, you'll achieve a glass-smooth finish that makes commercial boards feel rough.

Don't neglect the edges and corners. Round them slightly with sandpaper—sharp corners chip paint and snag bags. The hole edge deserves special attention. A small roundover here prevents bags from catching and tearing.

Finishing: Protection Meets Aesthetics

Prime everything—top, bottom, sides, and legs. I learned this lesson during a particularly humid summer when unfinished bottoms warped like bacon. Use a high-quality primer designed for wood.

For paint, avoid the temptation of house paint. It stays tacky too long and affects gameplay. Exterior acrylic paint designed for decks provides the right combination of durability and playability. Apply thin coats—two or three thin layers beat one thick one every time.

The playing surface needs special consideration. Some players prefer a slightly slick surface for faster play, while others want more friction for control. I've found that two coats of paint followed by one coat of water-based polyurethane provides the perfect balance. Sand lightly with 320-grit paper between poly coats.

Design-wise, the sky's the limit. I've seen everything from sports team logos to elaborate airbrush art. My personal boards feature a simple two-tone design with a border—classic and timeless. Whatever you choose, use painter's tape for clean lines and remove it while the paint is still slightly wet to prevent peeling.

Testing and Adjustments

Your first test throw will reveal any issues. Bags should slide smoothly but not too fast. If they're sticking, another coat of poly usually helps. If they're sliding off like they're on ice, light sanding with 320-grit paper adds just enough texture.

Check that your boards sit level and at the correct height. Minor adjustments to leg length can compensate for uneven ground. Some builders add adjustable feet, but I find that overcomplicates things.

The real test comes during actual gameplay. Invite friends over, provide beverages of choice, and put your boards through their paces. You'll quickly discover if any adjustments are needed.

Maintenance and Longevity

Well-built boards require minimal maintenance. Store them indoors when possible, or at least under cover. Every spring, I inspect mine for loose screws, worn finish, or damage. A light sanding and fresh coat of poly every few years keeps them playing like new.

Watch for signs of delamination where the plywood meets the frame. This usually indicates moisture infiltration. Caught early, some glue and clamps can fix it. Ignored, you'll be building new boards.

The Intangibles

Building your own cornhole boards transcends the simple act of construction. Every time someone compliments your boards or asks where you bought them, you'll feel that particular pride that comes from creating something with your hands. You'll notice details invisible to others—the way the grain patterns aligned perfectly, how the paint caught the light just right, the satisfying thud of a bag hitting your carefully smoothed surface.

More importantly, you'll have created something that brings people together. In an increasingly digital world, cornhole remains stubbornly analog—a game that requires presence, encourages conversation, and creates memories. Your handmade boards become part of countless gatherings, witnessed to celebrations and friendly competitions.

Last summer, my daughter got married in our backyard. As the reception wound down, guests naturally gravitated toward the cornhole boards I'd built years earlier. Watching three generations play together—her new father-in-law teaching my grandson the proper throwing technique—I realized these simple wooden platforms had become family heirlooms.

That's the real magic of building your own boards. You're not just cutting wood and applying paint. You're creating a gathering place, a conversation starter, a tradition. Every scuff mark tells a story, every ding represents a memory. Store-bought boards are disposable commodities. Handmade boards become part of your family's fabric.

So clear out some space in the garage, sharpen your saw blade, and prepare to join the ranks of cornhole craftsmen. Your first boards might not be perfect—mine certainly weren't. But they'll be yours, infused with your effort and care. And when you sink that first perfect shot through the hole you carefully cut and sanded, you'll understand why some of us can never go back to store-bought boards again.

The beauty lies not in perfection, but in the imperfections that make them uniquely yours. Those slightly rounded corners that took forever to get right, the paint color you mixed yourself because nothing at the store was quite right, the legs that fold with a satisfying click—these details matter. They transform simple boards into something more, something that carries a piece of yourself into every game.

Welcome to the brotherhood and sisterhood of cornhole builders. May your cuts be straight, your surfaces smooth, and your bags find nothing but hole.

Authoritative Sources:

American Cornhole Organization. Official Rules and Regulations for Cornhole Play. ACO Publications, 2023.

Johnson, Michael R. The Complete Woodworker's Handbook: Essential Tools and Techniques. Sterling Publishing, 2022.

Smith, Patricia. "Analysis of Outdoor Game Equipment Durability." Journal of Recreation and Leisure Studies, vol. 45, no. 3, 2023, pp. 234-251.

Thompson, David. Building Outdoor Games: A Craftsman's Guide. Taunton Press, 2022.

United States Consumer Product Safety Commission. "Safety Standards for Backyard Game Equipment." CPSC.gov, 2023.

Williams, Robert J. Wood Selection and Finishing Techniques for Outdoor Projects. Fine Woodworking Press, 2023.