How to Keep Bees Away from Hummingbird Feeders Without Harming Either Species

I've been watching hummingbirds dart around my feeders for nearly two decades now, and if there's one thing that can turn a peaceful morning of bird-watching into a frustrating battle, it's a swarm of bees monopolizing the nectar ports. Last summer, I counted forty-seven honeybees on a single feeder – the poor hummingbirds couldn't even get close.

The relationship between bees and hummingbird feeders is actually more nuanced than most people realize. It's not that bees are villains in this story; they're simply following their biological imperative to collect sugar-rich resources. The problem emerges when our well-intentioned feeding stations become contested territory.

Understanding Why Bees Love Your Feeder

Bees possess an extraordinary ability to communicate food sources to their hive mates through their famous waggle dance. Once a scout bee discovers your feeder, she'll return to the hive and essentially provide GPS coordinates to dozens of her sisters. Within hours, what started as one curious bee becomes a buzzing cloud.

The sugar concentration in standard hummingbird nectar – typically a 4:1 water to sugar ratio – hits the sweet spot for bee preferences. In nature, flower nectar ranges from 20% to 80% sugar content, and your homemade nectar falls right in that appealing range. Bees also have excellent color vision and are particularly drawn to yellow, which explains why feeders with yellow flowers or bee guards ironically attract more bees.

Temperature plays a surprising role too. On hot days when natural nectar sources become scarce or too concentrated, bees seek out more dilute sources like your feeder. I've noticed significantly more bee activity during drought years when wildflowers struggle to produce nectar.

The Feeder Design Revolution

After years of experimenting with different feeder styles, I've become somewhat of a feeder snob. The traditional inverted bottle feeders with yellow plastic flowers? They're essentially bee magnets. The design flaw is obvious once you understand bee anatomy – their short tongues can easily access nectar from these wide, shallow ports.

Saucer-style feeders have changed the game entirely. These flat, dish-like feeders position the nectar below the feeding ports, creating a natural barrier that bees struggle to overcome while hummingbirds, with their long tongues, feed comfortably. My favorite discovery was switching to feeders with raised feeding ports that create an air gap between the port and the nectar level.

Some manufacturers have started producing feeders with built-in bee guards – small mesh or cage-like structures over the ports. While these can work, I've found they sometimes discourage smaller hummingbird species or juveniles who haven't figured out how to navigate them. It's a delicate balance.

Red feeders without any yellow accents work best. I learned this the hard way after buying a beautiful feeder with yellow flowers that became bee central within days. Now I actually paint over any yellow parts with non-toxic red paint.

Strategic Placement and Timing

Where you hang your feeder matters more than most people think. Bees prefer feeding in full sun, while hummingbirds are perfectly happy in partial shade. Moving feeders to shadier spots – under eaves, beneath tree canopies, or on covered porches – naturally reduces bee interest.

I've developed what I call the "two-feeder strategy." I maintain one decoy feeder in a sunny spot with slightly more concentrated nectar (3:1 ratio) specifically for bees, positioned well away from my main hummingbird feeding area. It's like offering the rowdy bar patrons their own VIP section – everyone's happier.

Height matters too. Bees typically forage closer to ground level where most flowers bloom. Hanging feeders at least six feet high reduces casual bee encounters, though determined scouts will still find them.

The early morning hours, before 8 AM in my area, tend to be prime hummingbird time with minimal bee activity. Bees need warmer temperatures to fly efficiently, so dawn feeders often enjoy a bee-free window.

Natural Deterrents That Actually Work

Peppermint oil has become my secret weapon. A few drops on the feeder's hanging apparatus (never on the feeding ports themselves) creates an invisible barrier that bees avoid. The key is reapplication every few days, especially after rain.

I've experimented with planting bee-friendly flowers away from feeding stations – a sort of botanical bribery. Lavender, salvia, and native wildflowers provide alternative food sources that many bees prefer over sugar water. One neighbor swears by planting a patch of mint near her feeders, claiming the strong scent masks the sugar water aroma.

Moving water near feeders serves double duty. A small fountain or dripper provides water for bees (they need it for cooling their hives) while the sound and movement can deter them from the feeder itself. I've noticed bees will often choose the water source over fighting hummingbirds for nectar access.

The Maintenance Factor

Here's something rarely discussed: dirty feeders attract more bees. As nectar ferments or crystalizes around ports, it becomes more detectable to bees. I've shifted to cleaning feeders every two days in hot weather, not just for hummingbird health but for bee management.

The type of sugar matters too. Only use plain white granulated sugar – never honey, brown sugar, or artificial sweeteners. Honey can actually transmit bee diseases back to hives, and organic sugars ferment faster, creating stronger odors that attract more insects.

Leaky feeders are bee magnets. Even tiny drips create sugar trails that bees follow. I've retired several otherwise lovely feeders simply because their seals degraded. A properly maintained feeder should never have sticky residue on its exterior.

When Coexistence Makes Sense

Sometimes, fighting the bees isn't worth the effort. During peak migration seasons when hummingbird traffic is highest, a few bees rarely interfere with feeding. I've observed hummingbirds and bees feeding simultaneously without conflict, each focused on their own survival needs.

In my garden, I've embraced what I call "scheduled sharing." During mid-day when bee activity peaks, I simply accept their presence. The hummingbirds adapt, feeding more heavily in early morning and evening hours. It's not perfect, but it reduces my stress and maintenance burden.

The Bigger Picture

We're living in an era of pollinator crisis. While it's frustrating when bees overwhelm our feeders, remember that both bees and hummingbirds face habitat loss and food scarcity. Our feeders, intended for one species, inadvertently support another struggling population.

I've started thinking of my yard as a pollinator sanctuary rather than a hummingbird-exclusive zone. This shift in perspective has led me to create diverse feeding opportunities – native plants for everyone, water sources at various heights, and yes, strategically placed feeders that minimize conflict while supporting both species.

The ultimate solution might not be keeping bees away entirely, but creating an environment where both can thrive without competition. After all, a garden buzzing with life – whether from tiny wings or busy bees – is exactly the kind of space our world needs more of right now.

Authoritative Sources:

Abrahamczyk, Stefan, and Susanne S. Renner. "The Temporal Build-up of Hummingbird/Plant Mutualisms in North America and Temperate South America." BMC Evolutionary Biology, vol. 15, no. 1, 2015, pp. 104-115.

Castellanos, Maria Clara, et al. "Anther Evolution: Pollen Presentation Strategies When Pollinators Differ." The American Naturalist, vol. 167, no. 2, 2006, pp. 288-296.

Heinrich, Bernd. Bumblebee Economics. Harvard University Press, 2004.

Kearns, Carol Ann, and David William Inouye. Techniques for Pollination Biologists. University Press of Colorado, 1993.

Mitchell, Robert J., et al. "New Frontiers in Competition for Pollination." Annals of Botany, vol. 103, no. 9, 2009, pp. 1403-1413.

Nicolson, Susan W., and Patricia A. Fleming. "Nectar as Food for Birds: The Physiological Consequences of Drinking Dilute Sugar Solutions." Plant Systematics and Evolution, vol. 238, no. 1-4, 2003, pp. 139-153.

Pyke, Graham H. "The Foraging Behaviour of Australian Honeyeaters: A Review and Some Comparisons with Hummingbirds." Australian Journal of Ecology, vol. 5, no. 4, 1980, pp. 343-369.

Stiles, F. Gary. "Ecology, Flowering Phenology, and Hummingbird Pollination of Some Costa Rican Heliconia Species." Ecology, vol. 56, no. 2, 1975, pp. 285-301.