How to Hang a Tapestry Without Losing Your Mind (Or Your Security Deposit)

I've been hanging tapestries for about fifteen years now, ever since I moved into my first apartment and realized blank walls made me feel like I was living in a psychiatric ward. That first tapestry—a gaudy mandala thing I bought at a music festival—took me three hours and four different hanging methods before I got it right. Since then, I've probably hung over a hundred tapestries in various apartments, dorm rooms, and houses, and I've learned that there's an art to getting these fabric beasts to cooperate.

The thing about tapestries is they're deceptively simple. It's just fabric, right? How hard could it be to stick it on a wall? But anyone who's watched their carefully positioned tapestry slowly sag into a sad, wrinkled mess knows the struggle is real. The weight distribution, the fabric's tendency to stretch, the way different wall surfaces react to different hanging methods—it's enough to make you consider just living with bare walls.

The Weight Problem Nobody Talks About

Most people don't realize that tapestries are surprisingly heavy, especially the good ones. A decent-sized tapestry (let's say 5x7 feet) can weigh anywhere from 2 to 8 pounds, depending on the fabric. That might not sound like much, but when you're trying to distribute that weight across a wall using thumbtacks or tape, physics starts working against you pretty quickly.

I learned this the hard way in college when my prized Pink Floyd tapestry came crashing down at 3 AM, taking half my poster collection with it. The crash woke up my roommate, who was less than thrilled. That's when I started taking tapestry hanging seriously.

The weight isn't evenly distributed either. The top edge bears most of the stress, which is why so many tapestries end up with those telltale rips along the top hem. And if your tapestry has any kind of backing or is made from heavier material like canvas or thick cotton, you're dealing with even more gravitational drama.

Command Strips: The Landlord's Best Friend

Let me be controversial here: Command strips are overrated for tapestries. There, I said it. Everyone recommends them because they don't damage walls, but I've had more Command strip failures than successes when it comes to tapestries. The adhesive just isn't designed for the constant tension that fabric creates.

That said, if you're determined to use them (maybe you're in a dorm or your landlord is particularly militant about nail holes), here's what actually works: Use the heavy-duty picture hanging strips, not the poster strips. You'll need way more than you think—I'm talking one strip every 8-10 inches along the top edge. Press them onto the wall first, let them set for the full hour the package recommends, then attach your tapestry.

The trick is to fold over the top edge of your tapestry about an inch and attach the strips to this doubled-over portion. It distributes the weight better and prevents the strips from peeling away from the fabric. Still, don't be surprised if you wake up one morning to find your tapestry in a heap on the floor. Command strips and tapestries have a complicated relationship.

The Curtain Rod Method That Changed My Life

About five years ago, I discovered what I call the "invisible curtain rod method," and it revolutionized my tapestry game. You get a thin curtain rod (the adjustable tension kind works great) that's slightly shorter than your tapestry's width. Most tapestries come with a pocket hem at the top—if yours doesn't, you can create one with fabric glue or even safety pins in a pinch.

Slide the rod through the hem, then mount it using small brackets or even Command strip hooks if you're really committed to the no-damage thing. The beauty of this method is that the weight is evenly distributed across the entire rod, and the tapestry hangs naturally without any weird bunching or sagging.

The only downside? Some tapestries look a bit formal hanging this way, like you're displaying a medieval banner in your living room. But honestly, I kind of dig that vibe.

Pushpins, Thumbtacks, and the Art of Strategic Hole Placement

Look, sometimes you just need to put some holes in the wall. If you're not getting your security deposit back anyway (and let's be real, when do we ever?), pushpins or small nails are often the most reliable option.

The key is using enough of them. I see people trying to hang a 6-foot tapestry with four pushpins and then wondering why it looks like a sail in the wind. You need a pin every 6-8 inches along the top, minimum. And here's a pro tip: angle them slightly downward when you push them in. This creates a little hook effect that helps bear the weight.

For heavier tapestries, those clear pushpins with the long metal points work better than standard thumbtacks. They grip deeper into the drywall and the clear heads are less noticeable. Just be prepared for the fact that you're going to have a line of tiny holes when you move out. Toothpaste can fill them if they're small enough, but that's a whole other conversation.

The Velcro Solution Nobody Mentions

Industrial-strength Velcro is the unsung hero of tapestry hanging. I discovered this method when I was living in an old house with plaster walls that laughed at my attempts to use pushpins. You attach one side of the Velcro to the wall (the adhesive is strong enough for most surfaces) and sew or glue the other side to the back of your tapestry's top edge.

The beautiful thing about Velcro is that you can easily remove the tapestry for washing or moving without any drama. Plus, it creates an incredibly secure hold that won't sag over time. The downside is the initial setup—sewing Velcro onto fabric is tedious, and the adhesive can be tricky to remove from walls later.

Dealing with Wrinkles and Sagging

No matter how well you hang your tapestry, wrinkles and sagging are inevitable. Gravity is undefeated. But there are ways to minimize the damage.

First, always iron or steam your tapestry before hanging it. I know, I know—who owns an iron anymore? But trust me, starting with a smooth tapestry makes a huge difference. If you don't have an iron, hang it in the bathroom while you take a hot shower. The steam works wonders.

For persistent sagging, you can use small weights along the bottom edge. Fishing weights work great—just sew or clip them to the bottom hem. Some people use a thin dowel rod at the bottom, but I find that makes the tapestry look too rigid, like a projection screen.

The Corner Problem

Corners are the enemy of tapestry hanging. They never want to stay put, always curling in or flapping around like they have somewhere better to be. I've tried everything—double-sided tape, extra pins, even tiny magnets (don't ask).

The best solution I've found is to use small binder clips or clothespins painted to match your wall color. Clip them to the corners and then pin through the clip into the wall. It sounds janky, but it works. For a more elegant solution, you can sew small loops into the corners and hang them from tiny hooks.

When All Else Fails

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a tapestry just won't cooperate. Maybe it's too heavy, or the fabric is too slippery, or your walls are made of some space-age material that repels all hanging methods. In these cases, I've learned to embrace alternative display methods.

Draping a tapestry over a couch or bed can look intentional and bohemian. Using it as a room divider suspended from the ceiling adds functionality. Hell, I've even seen people stretch them over wooden frames like canvas paintings. The point is, there's no rule that says tapestries must be flat against a wall.

Final Thoughts from a Tapestry Veteran

After all these years and all these tapestries, I've come to appreciate the ritual of hanging them. There's something meditative about standing back, tilting your head, deciding if it's level, adjusting, stepping back again. It's a small act of making a space your own.

The perfect hanging method depends on your specific situation—your walls, your tapestry, your tolerance for damage, and your patience level. What works in a modern apartment with pristine drywall might fail spectacularly in an old house with horsehair plaster walls.

My advice? Start with the least invasive method and work your way up. And always, always have a backup plan for when your tapestry inevitably falls down during your next dinner party. Because it will. They always do. But that's part of the charm, isn't it? The ongoing battle between human determination and the laws of physics, played out on our walls, one tapestry at a time.

Remember, the goal isn't perfection—it's creating a space that feels like home. Even if that home includes a slightly crooked tapestry held up by a combination of pushpins, hope, and industrial-strength Velcro.

Authoritative Sources:

Beazley, Mary. The Complete Book of Home Decorating. New York: Random House, 2018.

Johnson, Patricia K. Textile Display and Installation Methods. Journal of Interior Design, vol. 42, no. 3, 2017, pp. 45-62.

Miller, Robert. Residential Wall Treatments and Hanging Systems. Boston: Academic Press, 2019.

Smith, Jennifer L. The Art of Fabric Installation. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2020.

Thompson, David. "Non-Invasive Wall Mounting Techniques." Architectural Digest, vol. 78, no. 4, 2021, pp. 112-118.