How to Grow Strawberries: From Bare Root to Berry Paradise
I've been growing strawberries for nearly two decades now, and I still remember the disappointment of my first attempt. Those poor plants – I stuck them in heavy clay soil, watered them like tomatoes, and wondered why I got maybe three berries that entire summer. Since then, I've learned that strawberries are simultaneously forgiving and demanding creatures. They'll survive neglect, sure, but if you want those magazine-worthy berries that actually taste like something, you need to understand what makes these plants tick.
The thing about strawberries is they're not actually berries at all – botanically speaking, they're aggregate accessory fruits. But who cares about technicalities when you're biting into sun-warmed fruit straight from the garden? What matters is that these perennial plants can produce for years if you treat them right, and once you understand their quirks, they become one of the most rewarding crops you can grow.
The Foundation: Choosing Your Strawberry Variety
Before you even think about soil or planting, you need to pick the right type of strawberry for your situation. This isn't just about flavor (though that matters) – it's about matching the plant to your climate, your patience level, and how you plan to use the fruit.
June-bearing varieties produce one massive crop over 2-3 weeks in late spring or early summer. These are your jam-making, freezing, "oh god what do I do with all these berries" plants. Popular varieties like 'Chandler' and 'Jewel' fall into this category. The berries tend to be larger and more uniform, which is why commercial growers love them.
Everbearing strawberries are liars – they don't actually bear fruit continuously. Instead, they give you two or three smaller harvests throughout the growing season. 'Ozark Beauty' and 'Quinault' are solid choices if you want berries for fresh eating over a longer period.
Then there are day-neutral varieties, which are what everbearing strawberries wish they were. These plants will fruit whenever temperatures are between 35°F and 85°F, regardless of day length. 'Seascape' and 'Albion' are fantastic if you live somewhere with mild summers. I grow 'Seascape' in containers on my deck, and I'm still picking berries in October here in zone 6b.
Alpine strawberries deserve their own mention. These are the wild cousins – tiny, intensely flavored berries on compact plants that don't send out runners. 'Alexandria' and 'Yellow Wonder' (yes, yellow strawberries exist) are perfect for edging beds or growing in partial shade. The flavor is extraordinary, like strawberry concentrate, though you'll need patience to collect enough for more than a garnish.
Soil Preparation: The Make-or-Break Factor
Strawberries are picky about soil in ways that seem contradictory. They need excellent drainage but consistent moisture. They want rich soil but are prone to root diseases in heavy ground. The sweet spot is a slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.8), well-draining loam enriched with organic matter.
I learned the hard way that "well-draining" isn't just gardening jargon. My first strawberry bed was in an area where water pooled after rain. By July, half the plants had succumbed to root rot, their crowns turning a sickly brown mush. Now I always do the drainage test: dig a hole about 8 inches deep, fill it with water, and time how long it takes to drain. If it's still there after 4 hours, you need to improve drainage or build raised beds.
Speaking of raised beds, they're almost magical for strawberries. Even a 6-inch elevation improves drainage dramatically and warms the soil earlier in spring. I build mine 8-12 inches high and fill them with a mix of native soil, compost, and aged manure. Some people swear by adding sand for drainage, but unless you're using coarse builder's sand and lots of it, you're more likely to create concrete than improve drainage.
The organic matter component can't be overstated. Strawberries are heavy feeders that also need good soil structure. I work in 2-3 inches of compost before planting, plus a balanced organic fertilizer. My go-to mix is 2 cups of blood meal, 3 cups of bone meal, and 2 cups of kelp meal per 100 square feet, worked into the top 6 inches of soil.
Planting: Timing and Technique Matter
The best time to plant strawberries depends on your climate and the type of plants you're using. In most areas, early spring planting of dormant bare-root plants gives the best results. The soil should be workable but still cool – usually 3-4 weeks before your average last frost date. Fall planting works in mild winter areas, giving plants time to establish before fruiting the following spring.
Here's where most people mess up: planting depth. The crown of a strawberry plant (where the leaves emerge) needs to sit exactly at soil level. Too deep and the crown rots. Too shallow and the roots dry out. I use a trowel to make a cone-shaped mound in each planting hole, spread the roots over it like an octopus, then backfill so the crown sits perfectly at ground level.
Spacing depends on your growing system. The matted row system, where you let runners fill in between mother plants, starts with plants 12-18 inches apart in rows 3-4 feet apart. It's productive but can become a tangled mess. The hill system, where you remove all runners and space plants 12 inches apart in all directions, gives larger berries but requires more plants initially. I prefer a modified hill system – I let each mother plant produce 2-4 daughter plants, then remove the rest.
Container growing has become my favorite method for day-neutral varieties. A 12-inch pot holds one plant comfortably, or you can use those strawberry jars with multiple pockets. The trick is using a quality potting mix (not garden soil) and being religious about watering. Containers dry out fast, and drought-stressed strawberries taste like disappointment.
The First Year: Patience Pays Off
This is going to hurt, but here it is: you should remove all flowers from June-bearing strawberries their first year. I know, I know – you planted strawberries to get strawberries. But removing flowers lets plants put energy into establishing strong root systems and producing runners. You'll be rewarded with double or triple the harvest the following year.
With everbearing and day-neutral varieties, I compromise. Remove flowers until July, then let them fruit. You'll get a small harvest while still allowing good establishment. Alpine strawberries are the exception – let them flower and fruit from the start since they don't produce runners anyway.
First-year care focuses on weed control and consistent moisture. Strawberries have shallow roots and can't compete with weeds. I mulch with 2-3 inches of straw (not hay, which is full of weed seeds) after the soil warms. Pine needles work too and have the bonus of slightly acidifying the soil. Some people use black plastic mulch, which does warm the soil and prevent weeds, but I find it ugly and annoying to work around.
Watering needs change through the season. During establishment and fruit development, plants need about 1-1.5 inches per week. I use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep water off the leaves and developing fruit. Overhead watering is an invitation to fungal diseases, especially in humid climates.
Feeding Your Berry Factory
Strawberries are gluttons, but they're particular about their diet. Too much nitrogen gives you enormous plants with gorgeous leaves and no fruit. Too little, and you get weak plants with small, flavorless berries.
I fertilize established plants three times per year. The first feeding comes in early spring when growth resumes – a balanced organic fertilizer at half the recommended rate. The second application happens after harvest for June-bearers (or monthly for day-neutrals), using a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. The final feeding in late summer helps plants store energy for next year's crop.
Compost tea has become my secret weapon. Every two weeks during the growing season, I spray plants with actively aerated compost tea. It's not just fertilizer – it's a probiotic for your soil, introducing beneficial microorganisms that help prevent diseases and improve nutrient availability. My berries have been noticeably sweeter since I started this practice.
The Dark Side: Pests and Diseases
Let's be honest – strawberries attract problems like a magnet. Birds, slugs, pill bugs, and seemingly every fungal disease known to gardening. But don't despair. Most issues are manageable with prevention and quick action.
Birds are my nemesis. They have an uncanny ability to know exactly when berries reach perfect ripeness, usually one day before I plan to pick. Netting is the only reliable solution, but it needs to be properly supported above the plants. I build simple frames from PVC pipe and drape bird netting over them, securing the edges with landscape staples. Some people swear by fake owls or reflective tape, but my birds just laugh at these.
Slugs and pill bugs go after ripe berries touching the ground. Straw mulch helps keep fruit clean and dry. For serious slug problems, I use iron phosphate bait – it's safe around pets and wildlife but deadly to slugs and snails. Beer traps work too, though you'll question your life choices when emptying them.
Gray mold (botrytis) is the most common disease, especially in wet springs. It starts as a fuzzy gray growth on berries and can destroy an entire harvest. Prevention is key: good air circulation, drip irrigation, and removing any affected berries immediately. I also thin plants if they're overcrowded and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers that promote soft, disease-prone growth.
Verticillium wilt is the strawberry apocalypse – a soil-borne disease that kills plants from the roots up. There's no cure, only prevention. Never plant strawberries where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants grew in the past 3-4 years. If you see plants wilting and dying despite adequate water, remove them immediately and don't replant strawberries in that spot for at least 5 years.
Renovation: The Key to Long-Term Production
June-bearing strawberries need tough love after harvest. Renovation sounds drastic because it is – you're essentially giving your patch a severe haircut and thinning. But it's crucial for maintaining production.
Right after harvest, mow or cut plants to about 3 inches above the crown. Yes, it looks terrible. Then narrow rows to 6-8 inches wide by tilling or hand-digging between them. Thin remaining plants to 4-6 inches apart. Finally, fertilize and water well. New growth appears within weeks, and these renovated plants will outproduce neglected patches by a huge margin.
Day-neutral and everbearing varieties don't need renovation, just regular maintenance. Remove dead leaves, thin overcrowded areas, and replace plants every 3-4 years as production declines.
Winter Care: Preparing for the Cold
Strawberries are surprisingly cold-hardy once dormant, but they need protection from temperature fluctuations and drying winds. The trick is timing – mulch too early and plants might not harden off properly. Too late, and crown damage has already occurred.
I wait until we've had several hard freezes and plants are fully dormant, usually late November here. Then I cover the entire bed with 3-4 inches of straw or pine needles. The goal isn't to keep plants warm but to maintain consistent temperatures and prevent frost heaving.
In spring, gradually remove mulch as new growth appears. I pull it back into the pathways where it continues to suppress weeds and keep berries clean. Watch weather forecasts closely – late frosts can destroy flowers. I keep old sheets handy for emergency frost protection.
The Harvest: When Patience Becomes Paradise
After all this work, harvesting is pure joy. Strawberries are ready when they're fully red (or white/yellow for alpine varieties) with no white shoulders. They should come off easily with a gentle twist, leaving the green cap attached.
Morning harvest, after the dew dries but before the day heats up, gives you berries at their best. I use shallow containers to prevent crushing and never wash berries until just before eating – water promotes decay.
Here's something commercial growers won't tell you: the best strawberries are the ugly ones. Those misshapen berries that would never make it to a grocery store often have the most intense flavor. My family fights over the "ugly berries" while picture-perfect ones sit untouched.
Storage is strawberries' weakness. Even under ideal conditions (unwashed, in a single layer, refrigerated), they last maybe a week. That's why I freeze extras immediately – hull them, lay them on cookie sheets to freeze individually, then transfer to freezer bags. They won't be good for fresh eating after freezing, but they're perfect for smoothies, jam, or baking.
Beyond the Basics: Advanced Techniques
Once you've mastered basic strawberry growing, there's always more to explore. I've been experimenting with Korean natural farming techniques, using indigenous microorganisms and fermented plant juices to boost plant health. The results are promising – larger berries with more complex flavors.
Companion planting opens another dimension. Borage planted nearby is said to strengthen strawberry plants and improve berry flavor. I can't prove the flavor claim, but borage definitely attracts pollinators, and its leaves make great mulch. Onions and garlic planted between rows may help deter pests.
For those with limited space, vertical growing systems work surprisingly well. I've built pyramids from cedar boards and towers from stacked containers. The key is ensuring each plant gets adequate light and water. Drip irrigation is almost mandatory for vertical systems.
The Philosophy of Growing Strawberries
After all these years, I've realized strawberry growing is about more than fruit production. It's a practice in patience, observation, and working with natural systems rather than against them. Every season teaches something new, every variety offers different lessons.
There's profound satisfaction in picking sun-warmed berries you've nurtured from bare roots. Store-bought strawberries, bred for shipping rather than flavor, pale in comparison to homegrown fruit allowed to ripen fully on the plant. Once you've tasted that difference, there's no going back.
Growing strawberries connects us to centuries of gardeners who selected and saved the best plants, gradually developing the varieties we enjoy today. When I plant strawberries, I'm participating in that continuum, even if just in my small backyard patch.
So start small if you're new to this. Plant a dozen strawberries and see what happens. Make mistakes – they're more educational than successes. In a few years, you'll be the one sharing extra plants with neighbors, passing on both the physical plants and the accumulated wisdom of your experience.
The journey from bare root to berry paradise isn't always smooth, but it's always worthwhile. And when you bite into that first perfectly ripe strawberry of the season, still warm from the sun, you'll understand why gardeners have been growing these "false berries" for centuries. Some things are worth the effort.
Authoritative Sources:
Bowling, Barbara L. The Berry Grower's Companion. Timber Press, 2005.
Galletta, Gene J., and David G. Himelrick, editors. Small Fruit Crop Management. Prentice Hall, 1990.
Hancock, James F. Strawberries. CABI Publishing, 1999.
Hill, Lewis. Fruits and Berries for the Home Garden. Storey Publishing, 2011.
Pritts, Marvin P., and David Handley, editors. Strawberry Production Guide for the Northeast, Midwest, and Eastern Canada. Natural Resource, Agriculture, and Engineering Service, 1998.
Reich, Lee. Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden. Timber Press, 2004.
Rieger, Mark. Introduction to Fruit Crops. Food Products Press, 2006.