How to Get Squirrels Out of Attic: A Battle-Tested Approach to Reclaiming Your Home's Upper Territory

I'll never forget the morning I discovered I wasn't alone in my house. The scratching above my bedroom ceiling at 5 AM wasn't a ghost or my imagination running wild—it was a family of gray squirrels who'd decided my attic was their new penthouse suite. That discovery launched me into what became a three-week odyssey of learning everything there is to know about evicting these furry squatters.

The thing about squirrels in your attic is that they're not just passing through. Once they've found a way in, they're planning to stay, raise their young, and possibly invite their extended family for the holidays. And unlike that cousin who overstays their welcome, you can't just ask them politely to leave.

Understanding Your Uninvited Guests

Before you can effectively remove squirrels, you need to understand what you're dealing with. These aren't just cute park creatures looking for handouts—attic squirrels are determined homesteaders with surprising intelligence and persistence.

Squirrels typically enter attics for three main reasons: shelter from predators and weather, a safe place to raise their babies (called kits), and proximity to food sources. The peak invasion times are early fall when they're looking for winter quarters, and late winter when females seek nesting sites. In my case, it was February, and mama squirrel was house-hunting for her upcoming litter.

What struck me during my research was how incredibly destructive these animals can be. We're not talking about a few chewed wires here. Squirrels can cause thousands of dollars in damage by gnawing through electrical wiring (creating fire hazards), shredding insulation for nesting material, and contaminating areas with droppings and urine. One wildlife control expert I spoke with mentioned seeing an attic where squirrels had completely destroyed $8,000 worth of newly installed insulation in just two months.

The Detective Work: Finding Entry Points

The first rule of squirrel eviction is this: you can't solve the problem until you find every single entry point. And I mean every single one. Squirrels can squeeze through holes as small as 1.5 inches in diameter—about the size of a golf ball.

I spent an entire Saturday afternoon playing detective around my house. Armed with binoculars and a notepad, I examined every inch of my roofline, soffit, and fascia boards. The main entry point was obvious—a baseball-sized hole where the soffit met the roof edge. But here's what most people miss: squirrels rarely use just one entrance. They're smart enough to create multiple escape routes.

Sure enough, I found two more potential entry points: a gap where the chimney met the roof and a small opening near a gable vent. The telltale signs were subtle but unmistakable once you know what to look for—gray fur caught on rough edges, gnaw marks on wood, and what I call "squirrel grease"—dark smudges from their fur rubbing against surfaces as they squeeze through.

During your inspection, pay special attention to:

• Roof-soffit intersections (the most common entry point)
• Areas around chimneys and vents
• Damaged or rotting fascia boards
• Gaps in roof flashing
• Uncapped chimneys
• Loose or damaged attic vents

The Waiting Game: Timing Your Eviction

Here's where things get ethically complicated and legally important. In many states, including mine, it's illegal to seal squirrels inside an attic, especially during baby season (typically February-May and August-October). Sealing in adult squirrels is inhumane and ineffective—they'll either die inside (creating a whole different problem) or chew new holes to escape.

I made the mistake of initially wanting to rush the process. But after consulting with a licensed wildlife control operator, I learned that patience isn't just a virtue in squirrel eviction—it's essential. If you seal the entry points while babies are inside, the mother will literally tear your roof apart trying to get back to them. I've seen photos of the damage, and it's not pretty.

The most humane and effective approach is to wait until the young are old enough to leave on their own, which typically takes 10-12 weeks from birth. Yes, that seems like forever when you're listening to the pitter-patter of little paws above your head every morning, but trust me, it's worth the wait.

Eviction Methods That Actually Work

Once you've confirmed there are no babies (or they're old enough to leave), you have several options for encouraging your squirrels to relocate. I tried several methods with varying degrees of success.

One-Way Exclusion Doors This was my ultimate solution. These devices allow squirrels to exit but not re-enter. You install them over the main entry point after sealing all other holes. The beauty of this method is its simplicity and effectiveness. Within three days, my attic was squirrel-free.

The key is proper installation. The door must be securely attached with no gaps, and you must be absolutely certain all other entry points are sealed. I used heavy-gauge hardware cloth for the repairs, not chicken wire (squirrels laugh at chicken wire).

Harassment Techniques Before discovering exclusion doors, I tried various harassment methods. Bright lights left on 24/7 in the attic made some difference—squirrels prefer dark, quiet spaces for nesting. I also tried a radio tuned to a talk station. The constant human voices seemed to unsettle them, though my electricity bill that month was painful.

Some people swear by ammonia-soaked rags or commercial repellents. In my experience, these provide temporary relief at best. Squirrels are remarkably adaptable and will often return once the smell dissipates. One product I tried claimed to use predator urine—save your money. My squirrels seemed entirely unimpressed by the supposed threat of coyote pee.

What Doesn't Work Let me save you some time and money by listing what definitely doesn't work:

• Ultrasonic repellers (complete waste of money)
• Mothballs (illegal in many areas for wildlife control and ineffective)
• Poison (illegal, inhumane, and you'll have dead squirrels in your walls)
• Live trapping without exclusion (they'll just come back or others will move in)

The Nuclear Option: Professional Help

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, you need to call in the pros. This isn't admitting defeat—it's recognizing when a situation requires expertise beyond YouTube videos and hardware store solutions.

Professional wildlife control operators have access to equipment and techniques that aren't available to homeowners. They also understand local regulations and can handle situations involving baby squirrels humanely and legally. The cost typically ranges from $300 to $1,500 depending on the severity of the infestation and necessary repairs.

I almost went this route when I discovered what appeared to be multiple families living in different sections of my attic. The quote I received was $750, which included removal, exclusion, and basic entry point repairs. In the end, I managed it myself for about $150 in materials, but the peace of mind of professional service might be worth the extra cost for many homeowners.

Sealing the Deal: Proper Repairs

Once your squirrels have vacated, the real work begins. Proper repairs are crucial—a half-hearted patch job is just an invitation for reinvasion.

For holes in wood, I used a combination of hardware cloth and metal flashing, secured with screws (not nails—squirrels can work nails loose). For larger openings, I first filled the cavity with steel wool, then covered it with hardware cloth, and finally added a layer of metal flashing for extra protection.

One trick I learned from an old-timer at the hardware store: squirrels hate the feel of steel wool on their teeth. Stuffing it into smaller gaps before sealing provides an extra deterrent.

Don't forget to trim tree branches that provide easy roof access. Squirrels can jump up to 10 feet horizontally, so any branches within that distance need to go. I had to say goodbye to a beautiful oak branch that had been serving as a squirrel superhighway to my roof.

The Cleanup: More Than Just Sweeping Up

After eviction comes the unglamorous but necessary cleanup phase. Squirrel droppings can carry diseases, and their urine can soak into insulation and wood, creating lasting odor problems.

I suited up with a respirator, gloves, and disposable coveralls for this job. First, I removed all contaminated insulation—about six garbage bags worth. Then I vacuumed up droppings with a HEPA filter vacuum (never sweep dry droppings—it can aerosolize harmful particles).

The decontamination process involved spraying affected areas with a 10% bleach solution and allowing it to dry completely. For persistent odor issues, I used an enzyme-based cleaner designed for pet odors. It took three applications, but it finally eliminated that musky squirrel smell.

Prevention: The Long Game

Six months after my successful eviction, I'm happy to report my attic remains squirrel-free. But I don't take it for granted. Every fall, I do a thorough inspection of potential entry points. I've also installed metal mesh over all my gable vents and had a chimney cap professionally installed.

Some additional prevention measures I've implemented:

• Regular roof inspections (twice yearly)
• Keeping bird feeders far from the house (squirrels love free meals)
• Installing metal collars on trees near the house to prevent climbing
• Maintaining a clear zone between landscaping and the house

The truth is, squirrel prevention is an ongoing process, not a one-time fix. These animals are persistent, clever, and always looking for opportunities. But with vigilance and proper maintenance, you can keep them where they belong—outside, entertaining park visitors and not destroying your insulation.

Final Thoughts

Looking back on my squirrel eviction experience, I gained more than just a rodent-free attic. I developed a grudging respect for these adaptable creatures and a deep appreciation for the complexity of human-wildlife conflicts in urban and suburban settings.

The key to successful squirrel removal isn't just about getting them out—it's about understanding why they're there in the first place and addressing those factors. It's about working with their natural behaviors rather than against them. And sometimes, it's about recognizing that sharing our environment with wildlife requires patience, knowledge, and a good sense of humor.

Would I go through it all again? Absolutely not. But am I glad I learned how to handle it myself? Definitely. There's something satisfying about solving a problem that's been keeping you up at night—literally. Plus, I now have a great story for dinner parties and the knowledge to help neighbors facing similar invasions.

Remember, every squirrel situation is unique. What worked for my 1950s Cape Cod might not work for your Victorian or ranch-style home. But the principles remain the same: identify entry points, exclude humanely, repair thoroughly, and prevent religiously. With patience and persistence, you can reclaim your attic and maybe even sleep past 5 AM again.

Just don't expect the squirrels to give up without a fight. They've got nothing but time, determination, and those ever-growing teeth that need constant gnawing. But armed with knowledge and the right materials, you've got something better—opposable thumbs and access to hardware stores.

Authoritative Sources:

Corrigan, Robert M. Rodent Control: A Practical Guide for Pest Management Professionals. GIE Media, 2001.

Hadidian, John, et al. Wild Neighbors: The Humane Approach to Living with Wildlife. 2nd ed., Humane Society Press, 2007.

Hygnstrom, Scott E., et al., editors. Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage. University of Nebraska-Lincoln, 1994.

Jackson, William B. "Biological and Behavioral Properties of Squirrels." Proceedings of the Vertebrate Pest Conference, vol. 11, 1984, pp. 234-238.

National Wildlife Control Operators Association. Best Management Practices for Wildlife Control Operators. NWCOA, 2019.

Salmon, Terrell P., and W. Paul Gorenzel. "Tree Squirrels." Wildlife Pest Control around Gardens and Homes. 2nd ed., University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources, 2010.

United States Environmental Protection Agency. "Rodent Control and Public Health: A Guide for Environmental Health Practitioners." EPA Publication No. 735-B-05-001, 2005.