How to Get Rid of Gophers: Underground Warfare in Your Own Backyard

Picture this: You've spent months cultivating the perfect lawn, only to wake up one morning to find it looking like a miniature mountain range. Those telltale crescent-shaped mounds of fresh soil aren't the work of some overzealous landscaper—they're calling cards from one of gardening's most persistent adversaries. Pocket gophers, those industrious tunneling machines, can transform a pristine yard into something resembling a lunar landscape faster than you can say "rodent control."

I've been battling these subterranean architects for the better part of two decades, and let me tell you, it's taught me more about persistence, patience, and the occasional futility of human endeavor than any self-help book ever could. These creatures aren't just pests; they're master engineers operating in a world we rarely see, following instincts honed over millions of years of evolution.

Understanding Your Adversary

Before you can effectively deal with gophers, you need to understand what drives them. These aren't social creatures throwing underground block parties. Each gopher is a solitary operator, fiercely territorial, maintaining a tunnel system that can stretch over 2,000 square feet. They're not hibernators either—these guys work year-round, though they're most active during spring and fall when the soil is just right for digging.

What really sets gophers apart from their lookalike cousins, the moles, is their diet. While moles are hunting grubs and earthworms, gophers are strict vegetarians with a particular fondness for roots, bulbs, and any tender plant material they can pull down into their tunnels. I once watched (well, observed the aftermath) as a single gopher systematically destroyed an entire row of prize-winning tulips by pulling them down from below, like some horticultural horror movie.

Their tunnel systems are marvels of engineering, really. The main tunnels run 6 to 12 inches below the surface, with deeper chambers for nesting and food storage. Those mounds you see? That's just excavated soil from their constant remodeling projects. A single gopher can create several mounds per day when they're feeling industrious.

The Art of Detection

Identifying active gopher tunnels is crucial—there's no point setting traps in abandoned real estate. Fresh mounds are your best indicator. The soil will be moist and fluffy, not dried and crusted over. Here's a trick I learned from an old-timer in California's Central Valley: find the freshest mound and look for the fan shape. The tunnel entrance is usually on the side opposite the fan's spread.

To test if a tunnel system is active, I use what I call the "open door test." Find a fresh mound, carefully excavate to locate the tunnel, and leave it open. An active gopher will plug that hole within hours, sometimes minutes. They're obsessive about maintaining their controlled environment—can't have predators or flood water getting in, after all.

Trapping: The Gold Standard

After years of experimentation, I'm convinced that trapping remains the most effective method for gopher control. Yes, it requires effort and a bit of skill, but it's reliable and doesn't involve poisoning your soil or endangering other wildlife.

The Macabee trap, invented over a century ago, is still my go-to tool. Its simple wire design hasn't changed because it doesn't need to—it works. The key is placement. You need to dig down to find the main tunnel, not the lateral feeding tunnels. Main tunnels are usually deeper and have harder, more compacted walls from repeated use.

Setting traps requires a delicate touch. Gophers are surprisingly sensitive to disturbances in their domain. I wear gloves not to mask my scent (that's an old wives' tale) but to avoid transferring oils that might make the metal traps less appealing to touch-sensitive whiskers. Place two traps facing opposite directions in the main tunnel, then cover the hole completely. Light is the enemy here—any illumination tells the gopher something's amiss.

Box traps offer a different approach, especially for those squeamish about the lethal nature of Macabee traps. These catch gophers alive, though then you're faced with the question of what to do with your captive. Relocating gophers is illegal in many states, and even where it's allowed, you're likely just making them someone else's problem.

The Flooding Fallacy

I need to address the water method because everyone seems to think it's a magic solution. The idea is simple: flood the tunnels and drown the gophers or force them to surface. In reality? You're more likely to create a muddy mess than solve your problem. Gopher tunnel systems are extensive with multiple exits and chambers at different levels. They can simply move to higher ground within their network and wait you out. Plus, excessive water can damage your lawn's root system and soil structure.

Chemical Warfare and Its Discontents

Poison baits are widely available and can be effective, but they come with significant drawbacks that make me hesitant to recommend them. Strychnine-treated grain was the standard for decades, though it's now restricted in many areas. Zinc phosphide baits are the current favorite, releasing toxic phosphine gas when consumed.

The problem with poisons extends beyond their immediate danger to pets and children. Secondary poisoning is real—predators and scavengers that eat poisoned gophers can themselves be killed. I've seen too many hawks and owls, nature's own rodent control, fall victim to this chain of toxicity. There's also the matter of dying gophers in their tunnels, creating odor problems and potentially attracting other pests.

Aluminum phosphide tablets, which produce phosphine gas when exposed to moisture, are sometimes used by professionals. These require extreme caution and aren't available to homeowners in many jurisdictions. The gas can be lethal to humans in confined spaces, and I've heard enough horror stories to keep me far away from this method.

Natural Deterrents: Hope Springs Eternal

The internet is full of natural gopher deterrents, and I've tried most of them with mixed (mostly poor) results. Castor oil-based repellents can provide temporary relief by making the soil and roots taste unpleasant. The effect is short-lived, though, especially after rain or irrigation.

Plants like gopher spurge (Euphorbia lathyris) are often touted as living barriers. In my experience, gophers simply tunnel around them. The same goes for daffodils, oleander, and other supposedly gopher-resistant plants. A determined gopher treats these like minor inconveniences, not barriers.

Ultrasonic devices deserve special mention because they're so persistently marketed despite limited evidence of effectiveness. The theory is that vibrations or high-frequency sounds drive gophers away. In practice, gophers seem remarkably adaptable to new stimuli in their environment. I've seen active tunnels running directly under these devices.

The Exclusion Option

For high-value areas like vegetable gardens or ornamental beds, physical barriers can be worth the investment. Hardware cloth or gopher wire (which has smaller mesh than standard chicken wire) installed 2 feet deep and 6 inches above ground creates an effective barrier. Yes, it's labor-intensive and expensive, but for protecting a prized garden, it's bulletproof.

Raised beds with wire mesh bottoms offer another solution, particularly for annual vegetables. The key is using galvanized wire that won't rust through after a season or two. I learned this lesson the hard way when cheaper wire failed and gophers invaded my tomato sanctuary.

The Predator Advantage

Encouraging natural predators offers a long-term, sustainable approach to gopher management. Barn owls are phenomenal hunters—a single family can consume over 1,000 rodents per year. Installing owl boxes has become something of an obsession for me, and while it hasn't eliminated my gopher problem, it's definitely reduced the pressure.

Domestic cats can be effective gopher hunters, though their success varies wildly by individual. My neighbor's cat, a portly tabby named Mr. Whiskers who looks like he couldn't catch a cold, is somehow a gopher-killing machine. My own cat prefers to watch from the window, occasionally offering moral support.

Cultural Practices and Lawn Management

Sometimes the best defense is making your property less attractive to gophers in the first place. They prefer moist, loamy soil that's easy to dig. Areas with heavy clay or very sandy soil see fewer gopher problems. Of course, completely changing your soil type isn't practical, but understanding this preference can guide your management strategies.

Reducing irrigation can help, as gophers need soil moisture to maintain their tunnels. This creates a delicate balance, though—you want your lawn healthy enough to recover from any gopher damage, but not so lush that it becomes a gopher paradise.

Regular mowing and maintaining shorter grass can make your lawn less appealing, as gophers prefer areas with good cover. They're vulnerable above ground and know it, so open areas make them nervous.

The Professional Option

There comes a point where calling in professionals makes sense, especially for severe infestations or when your own efforts have failed. Professional pest control operators have access to tools and techniques not available to homeowners, including carbon monoxide machines that pump exhaust into tunnel systems.

The cost varies widely by region and severity, but expect to pay $300-500 for initial treatment, with follow-up visits often necessary. Some companies offer ongoing maintenance programs, which can be worthwhile if you're in a high-pressure area.

Living with Limited Victory

Here's the truth nobody wants to hear: if you live in gopher country, complete eradication is probably impossible. These animals are part of the ecosystem, and as frustrating as they are, they do provide some benefits—their tunneling aerates soil and their abandoned burrows provide homes for other wildlife.

The goal should be management, not annihilation. I've learned to protect what matters most—my vegetable garden is now Fort Knox, while I'm more relaxed about the occasional mound in the back forty. It's about choosing your battles and accepting that in the war against gophers, victory is measured in degrees, not absolutes.

Some of my best gardening innovations have come from gopher pressure. I've become expert at container gardening, developed an appreciation for native plants that can handle some root disturbance, and learned to see garden design as an ongoing conversation with the landscape rather than a fixed plan.

Final Thoughts

After all these years of gopher management, I've developed a grudging respect for these creatures. They're survivors, adapting to every challenge we throw at them. In some ways, dealing with gophers has made me a better gardener—more observant, more patient, more willing to work with nature rather than against it.

The key to successful gopher control is persistence and adaptability. What works in one situation might fail in another. Stay observant, be willing to try different approaches, and remember that every small victory counts. And on those days when you're ready to throw in the trowel, remember that gardens are about growth and renewal. Even gopher-damaged lawns can recover with time and care.

Sometimes I wonder what gophers think about us, constantly interfering with their underground empires. Probably not much—they're too busy digging, eating, and defending their territory to philosophize. But in our parallel existence, sharing the same space in different dimensions, we've taught each other about persistence, adaptation, and the endless creativity required to thrive in a changing world.

Authoritative Sources:

Baldwin, Roger A. "Pocket Gophers: Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals." University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program, 2019. ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html

Case, Ronald M., and Bruce A. Jasch. "Pocket Gophers." Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage. University of Nebraska-Lincoln, 1994. icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/PocketGophers.asp

Engeman, Richard M., and Gary W. Witmer. "IPM Strategies for Reducing Pocket Gopher Damage." USDA National Wildlife Research Center - Staff Publications, 2000. digitalcommons.unl.edu/icwdm_usdanwrc/38

Hygnstrom, Scott E., et al. Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage. University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 1994.

Salmon, Terrell P., and W. Paul Gorenzel. "Pocket Gophers." Wildlife Pest Control around Gardens and Homes. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Publication 21385, 2010.

Witmer, Gary W., et al. "Management of Damage by Pocket Gophers." USDA National Wildlife Research Center, 2007. aphis.usda.gov/wildlife_damage/nwrc/publications/07pubs/witmer074.pdf