How to Get Rid of Beehive: A Thoughtful Approach to Managing Unwanted Bee Colonies
I've been dealing with bees for the better part of two decades, and if there's one thing I've learned, it's that the phrase "getting rid of" a beehive carries more weight than most people realize. Last spring, I found myself staring at a basketball-sized mass of buzzing activity tucked under my deck, and my first instinct—like yours, probably—was to reach for the nearest can of wasp spray. Thank goodness I didn't.
The reality of bee removal is far more nuanced than the internet would have you believe. And honestly? That's a good thing. Because once you understand what you're really dealing with, the whole process becomes less about destruction and more about problem-solving.
Understanding What You're Actually Looking At
Before you do anything—and I mean anything—you need to figure out what kind of flying insects have taken up residence on your property. This isn't just academic curiosity; it's the difference between a $50 solution and a $500 mistake.
Honeybees build those classic wax combs you've seen in nature documentaries. They're usually golden-brown, fuzzy, and relatively docile unless you're actively threatening their home. If you spot hexagonal wax structures, you're dealing with honeybees, and that changes everything about your approach.
Bumblebees, on the other hand, are the teddy bears of the bee world—round, fuzzy, and surprisingly chill. They nest in small colonies, often underground or in abandoned rodent burrows. I once found a bumblebee nest in an old bird house, and watching them bumble in and out was oddly therapeutic.
Then there are wasps and hornets, which people often mistake for bees. These are the ones with the smooth, shiny bodies and the attitude problems. Paper wasps build those umbrella-shaped nests that look like they're made from gray cardboard. Yellowjackets love wall voids and ground cavities. And hornets? They're basically wasps on steroids.
The distinction matters because honeybees are protected in many areas, and for good reason. We need them. Desperately. About one-third of the food you eat exists because of pollinators, and honeybees do the heavy lifting in that department.
When Removal Becomes Necessary
Sometimes, despite our best intentions, a beehive simply can't stay where it is. I get it. I really do.
Maybe the hive is inside your wall, and you're hearing that unnerving hum every time you walk past the bathroom. Perhaps someone in your family has a severe bee allergy—not the "it swells up and hurts" kind, but the "carry an EpiPen everywhere" kind. Or the bees have decided your front door is the perfect spot for their new home, turning your daily comings and goings into an obstacle course.
These are legitimate concerns. But here's what most people don't realize: even in these situations, killing the bees often creates more problems than it solves.
The Hidden Complications of DIY Bee Removal
Let me paint you a picture. You spray a can of insecticide into that hole in your siding where bees have been flying in and out. Success! The buzzing stops. You pat yourself on the back and go to bed.
Two weeks later, you notice a dark stain spreading across your interior wall. Then comes the smell—sweet at first, then increasingly putrid. Congratulations, you now have 40 pounds of honey, wax, and decomposing bee bodies inside your wall. In summer heat, that honey liquefies and seeps through drywall like a slow-motion disaster. The smell attracts other pests. Mice, ants, roaches—they all want in on this feast.
I learned this lesson the hard way at my cousin's house in Georgia. We thought we were clever, sealing up the entrance after spraying. The aftermath cost him $3,000 in wall repairs and took months to fully resolve. The honey had dripped down two stories inside the wall cavity.
Professional Removal: What Actually Happens
When you call a legitimate bee removal service (not just any pest control company—there's a difference), they approach the situation like a puzzle rather than a battle.
First, they'll identify the species and locate the entire colony. This might involve thermal imaging cameras or simply years of experience knowing where bees like to build. I've watched professionals work, and it's almost artistic how they read the flight patterns to determine exactly where the main hive is located.
For honeybees, the gold standard is live removal and relocation. This usually means opening up whatever cavity the bees are in—yes, that might mean cutting into your wall or removing siding. The beekeeper will vacuum up the bees using a special low-suction device that doesn't harm them, carefully remove all the comb, and transplant the whole operation to a proper hive box.
The best operators will even try to find and capture the queen. She's the linchpin of the whole operation. Get her, and the rest of the colony will follow. Miss her, and you might have stragglers hanging around for weeks.
The Relocation Option
Here's something that might surprise you: many beekeepers will remove honeybee colonies for free or even pay you for the privilege. Why? Because a healthy colony of bees can be worth $150-$300 to a beekeeper. It's like finding free livestock in your wall.
I maintain a list of local beekeepers' phone numbers on my fridge, right next to the pizza delivery places. When neighbors ask about bee problems, I hand them the list. Nine times out of ten, someone will come out the same day, excited about the prospect of a new colony.
The process is fascinating to watch if you can stomach being near that many bees. The beekeeper suits up, stays calm, and methodically transfers comb after comb into wooden frames. The bees, confused but generally cooperative, follow their brood and food stores into their new home.
When You Absolutely Must Handle It Yourself
I'm going to level with you—sometimes professional help isn't available or affordable. Rural areas especially might not have bee removal services within a reasonable distance. If you absolutely must handle a bee situation yourself, at least do it intelligently.
First, timing is everything. Bees are least active in early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler. They're also more docile on overcast days. Never attempt removal on a hot, sunny afternoon unless you enjoy being chased by thousands of angry insects.
For wasps and hornets (never honeybees—please), commercial sprays can be effective if used correctly. The foam types work better than the stream types because they expand to fill the entrance. Stand as far away as the product allows, have a clear escape route, and for the love of all that's holy, don't stand directly under the nest.
Wear protective clothing—not just long sleeves, but something thick. Bees can sting through thin fabric. Duct tape your sleeves to your gloves and your pants to your boots. Yes, you'll look ridiculous. Yes, it's worth it.
Prevention: The Unsexy Solution That Actually Works
After my deck incident, I became somewhat obsessed with prevention. It's not glamorous, but it works.
Every spring, I do a walk-around of my property, looking for gaps, holes, and potential nest sites. A tube of caulk and an afternoon of work can save you hundreds of dollars and countless headaches. Pay special attention to:
- Gaps where siding meets the foundation
- Spaces around outdoor electrical fixtures
- Holes where cables or pipes enter the house
- Damaged soffits or fascia boards
- Cracks in concrete or stucco
I also learned that bees scout for new locations before committing. If you see a few bees repeatedly investigating a particular spot, that's your cue to act. A bit of steel wool stuffed into a gap or some expanding foam can redirect their house-hunting efforts elsewhere.
The Bigger Picture
Here's my possibly controversial take: our knee-jerk reaction to "get rid of" bees reflects a broader disconnect from the natural world. We've created these hermetically sealed suburban environments where any wildlife intrusion is seen as a crisis rather than an opportunity for coexistence.
I'm not saying you should let bees build in your bedroom wall. But maybe that colony in the old oak tree at the back of your property? Perhaps it could stay. Maybe you could plant some bee-friendly flowers nearby and turn a perceived problem into a backyard pollinator haven.
A neighbor of mine did exactly this. Instead of removing a colony from a dead tree trunk, she had a local woodworker create a beautiful enclosure around it with a viewing window. Now it's a conversation piece and her garden has never looked better.
Making the Decision
When that humming mass appears on your property, take a breath. Assess the actual risk, not the perceived one. Consider the species, the location, and your family's specific needs. Then make an informed decision.
If removal is necessary, prioritize humane methods. If the bees can stay, maybe they should. And if you're somewhere in between, perhaps there's a creative solution waiting to be discovered.
The bees under my deck? A local beekeeper relocated them to his apiary where they're now producing honey. Last fall, he dropped off a jar at my door—golden, delicious, and a sweet reminder that sometimes the best solution isn't getting rid of something, but finding where it truly belongs.
Remember, every situation is unique. What worked for my deck bees might not work for your attic colony. But approaching the problem with knowledge, patience, and respect for these remarkable insects? That works every time.
Authoritative Sources:
Flottum, Kim. The Backyard Beekeeper: An Absolute Beginner's Guide to Keeping Bees in Your Yard and Garden. 4th ed., Quarry Books, 2018.
Packer, Laurence. Keeping the Bees: Why All Bees Are at Risk and What We Can Do to Save Them. HarperCollins, 2010.
Seeley, Thomas D. Honeybee Democracy. Princeton University Press, 2010.
United States Environmental Protection Agency. "Protecting Bees and Other Pollinators from Pesticides." EPA.gov, 2023.
University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources. "Bee and Wasp Removal." IPM.ucanr.edu, 2019.
United States Department of Agriculture. "Bee Health and Colony Collapse Disorder." USDA.gov, 2022.