How to Fix a Leaky Tub Faucet: A Real-World Approach to Solving That Annoying Drip
That persistent drip-drip-drip from your bathtub faucet isn't just annoying—it's literally money going down the drain. I've fixed more leaky tub faucets than I care to count, and I'll tell you something most plumbers won't: about 90% of the time, it's a simple fix that takes less than an hour.
The first time I tackled a leaky faucet, I was convinced I'd flood my entire bathroom. Twenty years later, I can confidently say that fear was completely unfounded. Most tub faucet repairs are surprisingly straightforward once you understand what's actually happening inside that chrome fixture.
Understanding Your Faucet's Inner Workings
Before you grab any tools, let's talk about what's really going on when your faucet leaks. Inside every faucet, there's a mechanism designed to create a watertight seal when you turn the handle to the "off" position. Over time, the parts responsible for this seal wear out—it's inevitable, like tires on a car or the soles of your favorite shoes.
The type of faucet you have determines which parts are wearing out. Single-handle faucets typically use a cartridge system, while two-handle faucets usually rely on compression valves with rubber washers or ceramic discs. Three-handle setups (with the middle handle controlling the diverter) follow the same principles but add an extra layer of complexity.
I remember working on my neighbor's 1970s-era compression faucet last summer. The thing had been dripping for months, and she'd been putting a bucket under it rather than calling a plumber. When I finally convinced her to let me take a look, the washer had deteriorated so badly it looked like a piece of chewed gum. Five minutes and a 39-cent washer later, the drip was history.
Gathering Your Arsenal
You don't need a plumber's van full of tools for this job. In fact, most of what you need probably lives in your junk drawer already. Here's what I keep in my faucet repair kit:
An adjustable wrench is your best friend here—get one that opens to at least 1.5 inches. A set of Allen wrenches (hex keys) is essential for modern faucets, as many use set screws instead of traditional screws. You'll want both Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, and I strongly recommend a pair of needle-nose pliers for fishing out old O-rings and grabbing small parts.
For parts, keep a variety pack of O-rings and washers on hand. They cost about as much as a fancy coffee drink and save you multiple trips to the hardware store. A small container of plumber's grease (not petroleum-based—that damages rubber) will help everything go back together smoothly.
One tool that's saved me countless headaches: a seat wrench. If you're dealing with an older compression faucet, the valve seat itself might be damaged. These specialized wrenches cost about ten bucks and can mean the difference between a quick fix and a full faucet replacement.
The Diagnostic Phase
This is where most people go wrong—they start disassembling things without first figuring out where the leak is actually coming from. Is water dripping from the spout? That's usually a cartridge or washer issue. Leaking around the handles? Probably O-rings. Water appearing at the base of the spout? Could be a worn spout O-ring or a cracked faucet body.
Turn on the faucet and then turn it off. Watch carefully. Sometimes what looks like a spout leak is actually water running down from a handle leak. I once spent an hour replacing perfectly good washers because I didn't notice water was actually seeping from under the hot water handle and running along the faucet body to the spout.
Shutting Down the Water Supply
This step makes people nervous, but it shouldn't. Look under your sink for shut-off valves—they're usually chrome or brass knobs connected to the water lines. Turn them clockwise until they stop. No shut-off valves? You'll need to turn off the main water supply to your house.
Here's a tip that'll save your sanity: after shutting off the water, open the faucet to release any pressure in the lines. This prevents that startling spray of water when you remove the faucet handles. Also, close the tub drain or lay a towel over it. There's nothing worse than watching a crucial small part disappear down the drain—trust me on this one.
Dismantling Your Faucet
Every faucet comes apart differently, but they all follow a basic logic. Start by removing the decorative caps on the handles—these usually pop off with gentle prying from a flathead screwdriver. Underneath, you'll find a screw holding the handle in place.
For single-handle faucets, the process varies by brand. Moen typically uses a small set screw at the base of the handle. Delta often hides theirs under a small cap. Price Pfister... well, they like to keep you guessing. I've seen set screws in at least four different locations on their faucets.
Once the handle's off, you're looking at the valve mechanism. For compression faucets, you'll see a packing nut that needs to be unscrewed. For cartridge faucets, there might be a retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge in place. Take a photo with your phone before removing anything—it's your roadmap for reassembly.
Identifying and Replacing the Culprit
With compression faucets, the usual suspect is the rubber washer at the bottom of the valve stem. Unscrew the stem and flip it over—if the washer looks worn, compressed, or damaged, that's your problem. Sometimes the brass screw holding the washer has corroded and needs replacing too.
The valve seat (where the washer presses to stop water flow) can also wear out. Run your finger inside the faucet body where the stem came out. Feel any roughness or pitting? That seat needs to be replaced or resurfaced. This is where that seat wrench comes in handy—some seats unscrew, while others need to be ground smooth with a seat dresser tool.
Cartridge faucets are more straightforward but also more expensive to fix. The entire cartridge usually needs replacement. The good news? Once you pull out the old cartridge, you can take it to the hardware store and find an exact match. The bad news? Cartridges can cost anywhere from $15 to $50, depending on the brand.
I learned the hard way that not all cartridges are created equal. Generic replacements might work, but they rarely last as long as OEM parts. Spend the extra ten bucks for the brand-name cartridge—your future self will thank you.
The Reassembly Dance
Putting everything back together should be the reverse of taking it apart, but it never quite works that smoothly. Before installing new washers or O-rings, apply a thin coat of plumber's grease. This helps them seat properly and prevents premature wear.
When tightening packing nuts or retaining nuts, remember this mantra: snug, not stripped. Over-tightening is probably the most common mistake I see. The nut should be tight enough to prevent leaks but not so tight that you need a breaker bar to remove it next time.
For compression faucets, there's a sweet spot with the packing nut. Too loose and water leaks around the stem. Too tight and the handle becomes difficult to turn. I usually tighten until I feel resistance, then give it another quarter turn.
Testing and Fine-Tuning
Before you declare victory, test thoroughly. Turn the water supply back on slowly—sudden pressure can blow out new seals. Check for leaks with the faucet off, then run it and check again after shutting it off.
Sometimes a faucet that didn't leak before suddenly starts leaking from the handles after you fix the spout leak. This isn't because you did something wrong—the increased pressure from fixing one leak can expose weaknesses elsewhere. It's like squeezing a balloon; fix one bulge and another might appear.
If you still have a slight drip after replacing washers or cartridges, the problem might be water pressure that's too high. Residential water pressure should be between 40 and 60 PSI. Anything over 80 PSI will destroy faucet components prematurely. A pressure-reducing valve at your main water line can solve this issue.
When to Wave the White Flag
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, that faucet keeps leaking. If you've replaced all the usual suspects and still have problems, you might be dealing with a cracked faucet body or corroded valve body—issues that require full faucet replacement.
I once spent three hours trying to fix a faucet in a rental property, replacing every possible component. Turns out the faucet body had a hairline crack that only leaked under specific pressure conditions. Lesson learned: know when to cut your losses.
Age matters too. If your faucet dates back to the Reagan administration, replacement might be more cost-effective than repair. Modern faucets are more water-efficient and often easier to maintain than their older counterparts.
The Bigger Picture
Fixing a leaky faucet is about more than stopping an annoying drip. A faucet that drips once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons of water annually. In areas with tiered water rates, that can add up to real money.
There's also something deeply satisfying about fixing things yourself. In our disposable culture, the ability to repair rather than replace feels almost revolutionary. Plus, once you've successfully fixed one faucet, you'll find yourself volunteering to help friends and family with theirs. It's a useful skill that pays dividends over a lifetime.
I'll leave you with this thought: that leaky faucet isn't going to fix itself, and it's probably not as complicated as you think. The worst that can happen? You'll need to call a plumber anyway—which is exactly where you started. But more likely, you'll save yourself a hundred bucks and gain the confidence to tackle the next household repair that comes your way.
Authoritative Sources:
"Plumbing: Complete Projects for the Home." Creative Homeowner, 2006.
Cauldwell, Rex. "Plumbing: A Complete Guide for the Homeowner." Taunton Press, 2009.
"Residential Plumbing Code Requirements." International Code Council, 2021.
Sweet, Richard. "The Complete Guide to Plumbing." Creative Publishing International, 2010.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. "WaterSense: Fix a Leak Week." EPA.gov, 2023.