How to Drink Cognac: Beyond the Snifter and Into the Soul of France's Liquid Gold

Amber liquid swirls in crystal, catching candlelight like trapped sunsets. A businessman in Tokyo raises his glass of Hennessy Paradis. A grandmother in Bordeaux pours a modest measure of local VSOP into her evening coffee. Meanwhile, somewhere in Miami, ice cubes clink scandalously into a tumbler of XO, causing purists worldwide to collectively shudder. Cognac drinking exists in a fascinating tension between reverence and rebellion, tradition and transformation.

After spending years watching people navigate cognac service—from Michelin-starred restaurants to neighborhood bistros—I've noticed something peculiar. Most folks approach this spirit with either excessive ceremony or complete ignorance, rarely finding that sweet spot where enjoyment meets appreciation. The truth about drinking cognac properly lies somewhere between the stuffiness of old-world etiquette and the anything-goes attitude of modern mixology.

The Glass Matters More Than You Think (But Less Than Snobs Claim)

Let me share something that took me embarrassingly long to understand: the tulip-shaped cognac snifter, that iconic balloon glass we all picture, is actually terrible for drinking cognac. Yes, you read that correctly. Those oversized bowls trap alcohol vapors so aggressively that your first whiff delivers more ethanol burn than actual aroma.

Professional cognac tasters abandoned the traditional snifter decades ago. Instead, they reach for tulip glasses—narrower at the rim, wider at the bowl, shaped more like a wine glass that went on a diet. The design channels aromas upward while allowing alcohol vapors to dissipate. If you don't have a proper tulip glass, a small wine glass works beautifully. I've even enjoyed exceptional cognacs from regular rocks glasses when the moment called for it.

The temperature of your glass matters too. Room temperature is the standard recommendation, but here's a secret: slightly warming the glass in your palm can open up younger cognacs, while older expressions often benefit from a cooler presentation. One master blender in Jarnac taught me to rinse the glass with cognac first, swirl it to coat the sides, then discard it. This "seasons" the glass and eliminates any residual odors from storage or washing.

Understanding What You're Drinking Changes Everything

Before we dive deeper into technique, we need to talk about what's actually in your glass. Cognac isn't just fancy brandy—it's a specific type of brandy from a specific region of France, made under strict regulations that would make a Swiss watchmaker jealous.

The age statements on cognac bottles tell a story, but not the one most people think. VS (Very Special) means the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend aged at least two years. VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) indicates four years minimum. XO (Extra Old) used to mean six years but now requires ten. Here's what they don't tell you: most quality producers age their cognacs far beyond these minimums. That VSOP you're sipping might contain eaux-de-vie aged 15 or 20 years.

The region matters intensely. Grande Champagne cognacs offer finesse and floral notes that develop magnificently with age. Petite Champagne brings similar elegance with a touch more fruit. Borderies produces cognacs with distinctive nutty, toffee notes—my personal weakness. Fins Bois delivers cognacs with pronounced fruit and faster maturation. Each terroir speaks its own dialect of the cognac language.

The Ritual of the First Sip

Now comes the moment of truth. You've got your glass, you've got your cognac, and you're ready to drink. But wait—rushing into that first sip is like starting a novel at chapter three.

Begin with observation. Hold the glass up to the light. Young cognacs gleam pale gold, while older expressions deepen to mahogany, sometimes approaching the color of old leather. Swirl gently—cognac doesn't need the aggressive swirling you might use with wine. Watch the legs form on the glass. Thick, slow legs suggest an older, richer cognac.

Bring the glass to your nose, but keep it at chest level first. Cognac's high alcohol content (40% ABV minimum) can overwhelm if you dive in nose-first. Gradually raise the glass, pausing at different heights. You'll notice different aromas at each level—fruit and flowers higher up, wood and spice closer to the liquid.

When you finally taste, take the smallest sip possible. Let it coat your tongue without swallowing immediately. Cognac reveals itself in layers: initial sweetness, mid-palate complexity, then a finish that can last for minutes. That burning sensation newcomers often complain about? It usually means you're drinking too fast or too much at once.

Water, Ice, and Other Heresies

Here's where I'm going to upset some traditionalists: adding water to cognac isn't sacrilege. A few drops of room-temperature water can open up a cognac dramatically, especially cask-strength expressions. The key word is "drops"—we're talking about a quarter teaspoon at most.

Ice is more controversial. While purists recoil at the thought, cognac on the rocks has a long history, particularly in America. The dilution and temperature change completely transform the experience, muting some flavors while enhancing others. If you enjoy it this way, embrace it. Just maybe don't order XO on the rocks—that's like using a Stradivarius as a tennis racket.

The French themselves often drink cognac in ways that would horrify collectors. Cognac and tonic water is popular in southwestern France. The "Rémy Ginger" (Rémy Martin and ginger ale) sells by the thousands in Parisian clubs. My favorite local café in Cognac serves "café cognac"—espresso with a healthy splash of VS. These aren't bastardizations; they're evolution.

The Art of Pairing

Cognac's complexity makes it a fascinating partner for food, though most people never explore beyond the after-dinner pour. Young cognacs, with their vibrant fruit notes, pair beautifully with seafood. I once had VS with oysters in La Rochelle—the minerality of the shellfish played against the cognac's citrus notes in ways that still make me smile.

VSOP cognacs find their match in poultry and pork, especially dishes with fruit components. Duck à l'orange with a glass of VSOP is a classic for good reason. The cognac's oak notes complement the richness of the duck while its fruit echoes the orange sauce.

XO and older cognacs demand respect but reward experimentation. Dark chocolate is the obvious partner, but try vintage cognac with aged cheese—the umami notes in both create unexpected harmonies. Blue cheese with XO might sound insane until you taste how the cognac's sweetness balances the cheese's salt and funk.

Cigars remain cognac's most famous companion, though I'd argue it's often a waste of good cognac. The smoke overwhelms subtle notes you've paid dearly to experience. If you must smoke with your cognac, choose a mild cigar and a robust, younger expression that can hold its own.

When and Where: Context Is Everything

The setting shapes the experience more than any technical consideration. Cognac in a tumbler at a jazz club hits different than the same cognac in crystal at a formal dinner. Neither is wrong; they're just different conversations with the same liquid.

Season matters too. While cognac is traditionally considered a cold-weather drink, I've found young cognacs delightful in summer, especially in long drinks. VSOP and ginger beer over ice makes a sophisticated alternative to the ubiquitous gin and tonic. Meanwhile, old cognacs seem to taste better as the leaves fall, their wood and spice notes echoing autumn's palette.

Time of day used to dictate cognac consumption—digestif only, after dinner, period. Modern cognac drinking has blown those doors wide open. Cognac before dinner sharpens the appetite. Cognac with lunch feels deliciously French. Cognac at 3 PM on a Tuesday? Why not, if the moment calls for it.

The Economics of Enjoyment

Let's address the elephant in the room: price. Cognac can be absurdly expensive, with some bottles commanding more than a car. But here's the thing—you don't need to spend a fortune to drink well. Some of my most memorable cognac experiences involved bottles under $50.

The sweet spot for quality versus value lives in the VSOP range. These cognacs offer genuine complexity without the premium that comes with age statements. Look for smaller houses—they often deliver exceptional quality at reasonable prices because they're not paying for global advertising campaigns.

If you're splurging on XO or vintage cognac, buy from a reputable source and store it properly. Unlike wine, unopened cognac doesn't improve in the bottle, but it doesn't deteriorate either if stored upright in a cool, dark place. Once opened, cognac remains stable for years, though very old cognacs can lose some vibrancy after a few months of air exposure.

Building Your Palate

Developing a cognac palate takes time and attention, but it doesn't require a trust fund. Start with a quality VS from a major house—Martell, Hennessy, Rémy Martin, or Courvoisier. These provide a baseline for understanding cognac's fundamental character. Taste it neat, with water, with ice, in cocktails. Notice how it changes.

Graduate to VSOP from the same producer. The family resemblance will be clear, but age adds layers. Compare VSOPs from different houses side by side. You'll start noticing house styles—Martell's elegance, Hennessy's power, Rémy's fruit-forward approach.

When you're ready for XO, make it special. Don't just drink it; study it. Take notes. Compare it to the younger expressions you've tried. This isn't pretension—it's education. The more attention you pay, the more cognac reveals.

Visit cognac bars when you travel. Many cities have specialists who pour rare expressions by the glass. This lets you taste cognacs you'd never buy whole bottles of. Strike up conversations with bartenders who know their stuff. Some of my best cognac education came from random conversations over bars in unexpected places.

The Social Dynamics of Cognac

Cognac carries cultural weight that affects how we drink it. In hip-hop culture, cognac represents success and sophistication. In traditional French culture, it embodies patrimony and patience. In Asian markets, it signals status and respect. Understanding these contexts helps you navigate cognac in social situations.

When serving cognac to guests, offer options. Not everyone wants it neat. Have mixers available—ginger ale, tonic water, even Coca-Cola (yes, really). Provide different glass options. Let people find their own path to enjoyment.

If someone wants to shoot their XO like tequila, let them. Your horror won't enhance their experience. I've learned that cognac evangelism works better through example than preaching. When people see you savoring cognac, taking your time, clearly enjoying the experience, curiosity follows naturally.

The Future in Your Glass

Cognac is evolving rapidly. Climate change is altering harvest patterns in Cognac. Younger consumers are driving innovation in production and presentation. Cocktail culture has embraced cognac with enthusiasm, creating drinks that would have been unthinkable a generation ago.

New producers are experimenting with organic viticulture, alternative aging methods, and transparency in blending. Single-estate cognacs offer terroir expression comparable to fine wine. Cask-strength releases let enthusiasts taste cognac as it comes from the barrel.

Yet for all this innovation, the heart of cognac remains unchanged: patience, craft, and the alchemy of time. Every glass connects you to centuries of tradition, to specific plots of chalky soil, to the decisions of cellar masters who balanced these blends before you were born.

Finding Your Own Way

After all these words about the "right" way to drink cognac, here's my final confession: the best cognac is the one you enjoy, drunk however brings you pleasure. I've had transcendent experiences with modest pours in plastic cups and disappointing ones with precious vintages in perfect crystal.

The technical knowledge matters—understanding what you're drinking enhances appreciation. But don't let reverence kill joy. Cognac isn't a museum piece; it's a living tradition that continues because people keep drinking it, talking about it, arguing about it, discovering it anew.

So pour yourself a glass. Hold it up to the light. Take a breath. Take a sip. Let centuries of craft and culture wash over your palate. Then decide for yourself what comes next. Add ice if you want. Mix it with ginger beer. Shoot it back in one go. Or sit quietly and let it unfold across an hour of contemplation.

The cognac doesn't care. It just wants to be drunk.

Authoritative Sources:

Cobbold, David, and Sébastien Durand-Viel. Cognac: The Seductive Saga of the World's Most Coveted Spirit. Paris: Flammarion, 2002. Print.

Faith, Nicholas. Cognac. London: Mitchell Beazley, 2013. Print.

Jarrard, Kyle. Cognac: The Definitive Guide to France's Premier Brandy. New York: Countryman Press, 2018. Print.

Neal, Charles. Armagnac: The Definitive Guide to France's Premier Brandy. San Francisco: Flame Grape Press, 2011. Print.

Pacult, F. Paul. A Double Scotch: How Chivas Regal and The Glenlivet Became Global Icons. Hoboken: John Wiley & Sons, 2005. Print.

Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac. "Cognac Appelation and Crus." BNIC Official Website, www.cognac.fr/en/cognac/the-cognac-appelation-and-crus/. Web.