How to Do a Half Double Crochet: Mastering the Sweet Spot Stitch

The half double crochet sits in this perfect middle ground that I've come to appreciate more with each passing year of hooking yarn. It's neither the squat single crochet nor the lanky double crochet – it's that just-right stitch that builds fabric with a lovely drape while still working up reasonably quickly.

I remember when I first encountered this stitch, probably fifteen years ago now, in my grandmother's living room. She called it the "in-between stitch" and honestly, that's still how I think of it. There's something deeply satisfying about working rows of half double crochet – the rhythm feels different from other stitches, almost like a waltz compared to the march of single crochet.

Understanding the Mechanics

Before we dive into the actual process, let me share something that clicked for me after years of teaching crochet: the half double crochet is essentially a single crochet with an extra yarn over at the beginning. That extra wrap creates the additional height and gives the stitch its characteristic lean.

The abbreviation you'll see in patterns is "hdc" – and if you're working with British terminology, watch out because they call this same stitch a "half treble crochet." I learned this the hard way when I bought a vintage pattern book from a London charity shop and couldn't figure out why my sweater was coming out so short.

The Foundation Chain

You'll start with a foundation chain, just like any crochet project. Here's where I differ from a lot of instructors – I always tell people to chain one or two extra stitches. Why? Because that turning chain at the beginning can be tricky to work into later, and having a buffer stitch means you won't accidentally decrease on your first row.

Make your foundation chain with whatever number of stitches your pattern calls for, plus two. So if you need 20 half double crochets, chain 22.

Working Your First Half Double Crochet

Now comes the meat of it. Yarn over your hook – this is the key difference from single crochet. With that loop on your hook, insert your hook into the third chain from your hook. Yes, the third. Those first two chains become your turning chain.

Here's where muscle memory starts to develop. You'll yarn over again and pull through the chain stitch. At this point, you should have three loops on your hook. This is the moment that distinguishes half double crochet – instead of working through loops separately like in double crochet, you'll yarn over once more and pull through all three loops at once.

That's it. That's the stitch. But of course, there's more to it than just the mechanics.

The Rhythm and Flow

What nobody tells you about half double crochet is that it has its own particular rhythm. With single crochet, you get into this quick staccato pattern. Double crochet has a more flowing, elongated rhythm. Half double crochet? It's got this syncopated beat that takes some getting used to.

I find myself counting differently with half double crochet. Instead of the "insert, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two" mantra of single crochet, it becomes "yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through three." The emphasis lands differently, if that makes sense.

Common Stumbling Blocks

The biggest mistake I see – and I made this myself for months when I was learning – is losing track of that initial yarn over. Sometimes your hands want to revert to single crochet muscle memory, and you forget that preparatory wrap. The result? Uneven rows that look wonky.

Another issue is tension. Half double crochet can get tight quickly, especially if you're used to working single crochet with a firm hand. The extra height means you need to give the yarn a bit more breathing room. I actually went up a hook size when I first started working primarily in half double crochet, just until my hands learned the new tension.

Turning Chains and Row Transitions

This is where things get philosophical, and crocheters will argue about this until the cows come home. How many chains for your turning chain? The traditional answer is two, but I'm going to be controversial here – I often use just one, especially if I'm working with a drapey yarn.

The two-chain turn creates a very straight edge, which is great for structured pieces. But sometimes that edge is too rigid, especially for garments. A single chain turn creates a slightly curved edge that can be more forgiving and natural-looking.

When you turn your work and start the next row, you have another decision point. Do you work into the first stitch (if you're doing a one-chain turn) or skip it (for a two-chain turn)? This is where swatching becomes your friend. Different yarns behave differently, and what works for a sturdy acrylic might not work for a delicate alpaca blend.

The Personality of Half Double Crochet Fabric

Here's something you won't find in most tutorials: half double crochet fabric has personality. It's denser than double crochet but still has drape. It's taller than single crochet but doesn't have the holes that come with taller stitches.

I've made entire blankets in half double crochet, and they have this wonderful weight to them – substantial without being stiff. The fabric has a slight diagonal lean to it, which you can use to your advantage in design. I once made a cardigan where I deliberately worked different sections in opposite directions to create a subtle chevron effect just from the natural lean of the stitches.

Speed Considerations

Let's talk about the elephant in the room – speed. Half double crochet is faster than single crochet but slower than double crochet. For me, it hits the sweet spot when I want to finish a project in a reasonable time but still want a fairly solid fabric.

I timed myself once (yes, I'm that person) and found I could work about 40 half double crochet stitches per minute once I hit my rhythm. Compare that to about 30 single crochets or 50 double crochets in the same time. Your mileage may vary, but it gives you an idea.

Variations and Techniques

Once you've mastered the basic half double crochet, a whole world opens up. The half double crochet third loop (working into that horizontal bar on the back of the stitch) creates a ribbed effect that's perfect for cuffs and hat brims. I discovered this technique by accident when I inserted my hook in the wrong place, and now it's one of my favorite design elements.

There's also the linked half double crochet, where you insert your hook through the previous stitch before yarning over. This creates a denser, more connected fabric that's excellent for bags or anywhere you need structure.

Working in the Round

Half double crochet in the round requires its own set of considerations. The lean of the stitch becomes more pronounced when you're working in a spiral, creating a diagonal line where your rounds meet. Some people hate this; I've learned to embrace it as part of the handmade charm.

If you want to minimize the diagonal line, you can work in joined rounds instead of continuous spirals. End each round with a slip stitch and begin with a proper turning chain. It takes a bit longer but creates a neater finish.

Color Work Possibilities

Half double crochet is brilliant for colorwork. The stitches are tall enough to show off color changes but short enough that you don't get the gappiness that can happen with double crochet stripes. I've found that changing colors every two rows of half double crochet creates perfect stripes with no weird jogs or gaps.

For more complex colorwork, half double crochet can handle it. The density of the fabric means that carried yarns don't show through as much as they might with taller stitches. I've done some tapestry crochet in half double crochet that rivals knitted colorwork for clarity.

Final Thoughts on Mastery

Mastering half double crochet isn't just about getting the stitch right – it's about understanding when to use it. It's my go-to stitch for baby blankets because it's soft but stable. It's perfect for scarves because it doesn't curl like single crochet can. It makes excellent dishcloths because the fabric is absorbent but not too thick.

The more you work with half double crochet, the more you'll appreciate its versatility. It's not the flashiest stitch in your repertoire, but it might just be the most useful. Like a good friend, it's reliable, adaptable, and always there when you need it.

Sometimes I think we overlook the simple stitches in our rush to master complex techniques. But there's profound satisfaction in executing a basic stitch well, in understanding its nature so thoroughly that you can predict how it will behave in any situation. Half double crochet taught me that expertise isn't always about complexity – sometimes it's about truly knowing the fundamentals.

Authoritative Sources:

Barnden, Betty. The Crochet Stitch Bible: The Essential Illustrated Reference. Krause Publications, 2004.

Brittain, Susan, and Julie Armstrong Holetz. The Complete Idiot's Guide to Crochet. Alpha Books, 2010.

Eckman, Edie. The Crochet Answer Book: Solutions to Every Problem You'll Ever Face. Storey Publishing, 2005.

Hubert, Margaret. The Complete Photo Guide to Crochet. Creative Publishing International, 2010.

Silverman, Sharon Hernes. Crochet Essentials: The Portable Reference of Need-to-Know Techniques. Spiral-bound, 2008.