How to Clean Brass: Restoring the Golden Gleam of Your Treasured Pieces
Brass has this peculiar way of telling stories through its patina. Every fingerprint, every moment of neglect, every humid summer leaves its mark on this alloy of copper and zinc. Some collectors cherish that aged look—the greenish-brown testament to time's passage. Others, myself included during certain moods, prefer their brass singing with that original golden brilliance. After spending the better part of two decades collecting everything from Victorian door knockers to mid-century candlesticks, I've developed some rather strong opinions about brass cleaning that might ruffle a few feathers in antique circles.
The truth about brass is that it's simultaneously forgiving and temperamental. Unlike silver, which tends to tarnish uniformly, brass develops character in patches, creating what I call a "personality map" across its surface. This uneven oxidation actually tells you quite a bit about the piece's history—where hands touched it most, which areas faced the window, whether it lived near the sea.
Understanding Your Brass Before You Touch It
Not all brass deserves the same treatment, and this is where many well-meaning cleaners go terribly wrong. Lacquered brass—that shiny stuff you find on most modern fixtures—requires an entirely different approach than raw brass. You can spot lacquered brass by the way water beads up on its surface rather than spreading out. If you attack lacquered brass with traditional cleaning methods, you'll create a cloudy, streaky mess that's harder to fix than the original tarnish.
Then there's the question of value. I once watched a dealer at an estate sale nearly weep when she discovered someone had polished a rare 18th-century telescope to mirror brightness. That patina? It was worth more than the brass itself. Before you clean anything that might be genuinely old, consider whether you're erasing history or revealing beauty.
The Kitchen Chemistry Approach
My grandmother swore by ketchup. Not just any ketchup—it had to be Heinz, applied liberally and left to sit while she made her afternoon tea. The mild acids in tomato products do work, though the results can be uneven and the process messy. I've found that a paste of equal parts salt, flour, and white vinegar creates similar results with more control. The salt acts as a gentle abrasive while the vinegar's acetic acid dissolves the tarnish.
Mix these ingredients into a paste thick enough to stick to vertical surfaces. Apply it with your fingers—yes, bare fingers, unless you have cuts—because you can feel when you've reached clean brass beneath the tarnish. Let it sit for about ten minutes, though I've left it for up to an hour on particularly stubborn pieces without damage. The beauty of this method lies in its gentleness; you're unlikely to remove too much material even if you get distracted by a phone call.
Lemon and salt remains another classic combination, particularly effective on brass with moderate tarnish. Cut a lemon in half, dip it in table salt, and use it like a scrubber. The citric acid works faster than vinegar, which makes this method perfect for larger pieces like fireplace screens or bed frames. Just remember that citrus can leave brass with a slightly different tone than vinegar—a warmer, more orange cast that some find appealing and others find cheap-looking.
Commercial Cleaners and When They Make Sense
Despite my preference for homemade solutions, I keep a bottle of Brasso in my workshop. Sometimes you need consistency and predictability, especially when cleaning matched sets where uniform appearance matters. The petroleum distillates in commercial cleaners work differently than acids—they dissolve tarnish while leaving a thin protective film that slows future oxidation.
Bar Keepers Friend, originally formulated in 1882 to clean brass fixtures in taverns, deserves special mention. Its oxalic acid formula works brilliantly on heavy tarnish but requires more caution than gentler methods. I've seen it strip away decades of neglect in minutes, revealing brass so bright it looks almost white. This intensity makes it perfect for pieces you plan to lacquer afterward but risky for maintaining antiques.
Wright's Brass Polish occupies a middle ground—effective without being aggressive. Its ammonia-based formula cuts through tarnish while being somewhat self-limiting in its action. You'd have to work pretty hard to damage brass with Wright's, which makes it my recommendation for nervous first-timers.
The Mechanical Side of Cleaning
Sometimes chemistry alone won't cut it. Heavily corroded brass, especially pieces that have developed verdigris (that green crusty stuff), needs mechanical help. Start with the softest approach that works. A toothbrush—preferably one with natural bristles—provides just enough abrasion for most jobs. For intricate pieces, those tiny brushes sold for cleaning coffee machines work wonders in crevices.
Steel wool remains controversial in brass cleaning circles. The finest grades (0000) won't scratch brass significantly, but they do leave microscopic steel particles that can rust and stain. If you must use steel wool, follow up with a magnet wrapped in cloth to collect any residue. Bronze wool avoids this problem entirely while providing similar abrasion.
For truly stubborn cases, I've had success with automotive polishing compounds applied with a soft cloth. These products, designed to remove oxidation from car paint without scratching, work beautifully on brass. Just avoid anything labeled "cutting compound"—that's too aggressive for our purposes.
Advanced Techniques and Special Situations
Ultrasonic cleaners, those buzzing baths jewelers use, can work miracles on small brass pieces. Fill the tank with warm water and a few drops of dish soap, then let cavitation do the work. This method excels at cleaning intricate pieces like pocket watch cases or decorative hardware without risking damage to delicate details. Just remember to dry pieces immediately and thoroughly—ultrasonic cleaning removes every trace of protective oils.
For brass inlaid in wood or combined with other materials, spot cleaning becomes necessary. Q-tips dipped in your chosen cleaner allow precise application without affecting surrounding materials. I learned this lesson the hard way after destroying the finish on an antique barometer by being too enthusiastic with liquid cleaners.
Electrolytic cleaning—using electrical current to reverse tarnish—sounds space-age but actually works on principles discovered in the 1800s. You'll need a plastic container, aluminum foil, baking soda, and hot water. Line the container with foil, add a tablespoon of baking soda per quart of water, and ensure your brass piece touches the aluminum. The resulting electrochemical reaction transfers tarnish from brass to aluminum. While effective, this method can remove desirable patina along with unwanted tarnish, so I reserve it for pieces with no collectible value.
Post-Cleaning Protection
Clean brass starts tarnishing immediately upon exposure to air. If you want to maintain that fresh-polished look, you need protection. Renaissance Wax, developed by the British Museum, provides excellent protection without the plastic appearance of spray lacquers. Apply it sparingly with a soft cloth, then buff to a subtle sheen. One tin lasts years since you need so little per application.
For pieces that see heavy use, like door handles or kitchen hardware, consider professional lacquering. Yes, it changes the feel of the brass slightly, but it can extend the time between cleanings from weeks to years. Just remember that once lacquered, you're committed—removing lacquer to clean the brass beneath requires solvents and patience.
Some people swear by car wax for protecting brass. While it does work, I find it builds up in crevices and attracts dust. Microcrystalline wax proves superior for most applications, though it requires more effort to apply evenly.
Living With Brass
Perhaps the most important lesson I've learned is that brass doesn't need to be perfect. Those water spots on bathroom fixtures? They'll return within days no matter how thoroughly you clean. The fingerprints on doorknobs? Part of the patina of daily life. I've shifted from obsessive polishing to what I call "maintenance cleaning"—addressing real problems while accepting minor imperfections.
Brass responds to its environment in predictable ways. Coastal homes see faster tarnishing due to salt air. Pieces near frequently used stoves develop a darker patina from cooking oils in the air. Understanding these patterns helps you decide which pieces deserve protection and which can develop their own character.
I've also learned to appreciate partially cleaned brass. Sometimes removing tarnish from raised areas while leaving it in recesses creates more visual interest than uniform brightness. This technique, called "highlighting," makes decorative details pop while maintaining an antique appearance.
Final Thoughts on the Brass Cleaning Journey
After all these years and countless hours spent polishing, I've come to see brass cleaning as meditation rather than chore. There's something deeply satisfying about revealing golden metal beneath dark tarnish, about bringing light back to a neglected piece. But I've also learned when to stop—when good enough truly is good enough, when patina adds rather than detracts from beauty.
The key to successful brass cleaning lies not in any single technique but in understanding what you're trying to achieve. Are you preparing a piece for sale? Maintaining a family heirloom? Trying to match existing hardware? Each goal suggests different approaches, different standards of cleanliness.
Remember too that brass is forgiving. Short of using power tools or industrial acids, you're unlikely to cause irreversible damage. This resilience makes brass an excellent material for learning restoration skills. Start with pieces that don't matter much to you, experiment with different methods, and develop your own preferences.
Most importantly, don't let anyone—including me—tell you there's only one right way to clean brass. What works for my collection might not suit your lifestyle or aesthetic preferences. The best brass cleaning method is the one you'll actually use, the one that fits your schedule and standards. Whether that's weekly polishing with museum-quality wax or annual attacks with ketchup doesn't matter nearly as much as maintaining the pieces you love in a way that brings you joy.
Authoritative Sources:
Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute. "Caring for Brass, Bronze, and Copper." Smithsonian Institution, si.edu/mci/english/learn_more/taking_care/care_copper.html
National Park Service. "Conserve O Gram: Polishing Your Silver and Copper Alloys." U.S. Department of the Interior, nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/10-02.pdf
Roberts, Jennifer. Metal Cleaning and Polishing. London: British Museum Press, 2018.
Smith, Harold. The Complete Guide to Restoring and Maintaining Bronze, Brass, and Copper. New York: Sterling Publishing, 2019.
American Institute for Conservation. "Caring for Metal Objects." Foundation for Advancement in Conservation, culturalheritage.org/publications/online-resources