How to Clean Clippers: The Art of Maintaining Your Cutting Tools Like a Professional Barber

I've been cutting hair for nearly two decades now, and if there's one thing that separates the weekend warriors from the pros, it's how they treat their clippers. You can always tell when someone walks into a barbershop whether they actually know what they're doing by looking at their tools. Clean clippers aren't just about hygiene—though that's obviously crucial—they're about respect for the craft and understanding that these machines are precision instruments, not just buzzing metal boxes.

The first time I destroyed a perfectly good pair of Andis Masters, I learned this lesson the hard way. I was young, cocky, and thought a quick wipe-down was all my clippers needed. Six months later, they were grinding like a coffee mill and pulling hair instead of cutting it. That $150 mistake taught me more about clipper maintenance than any YouTube tutorial ever could.

The Daily Dance: What Happens Between Every Cut

Let me paint you a picture of what actually goes on inside your clippers while you're using them. Every single hair that gets cut leaves behind microscopic debris. Mix that with skin cells, natural oils from the scalp, and whatever product your client (or you) had in their hair, and you've got yourself a perfect storm of gunk building up in those blade teeth. This isn't just gross—it's mechanically destructive.

After every single haircut, I do what I call the "quick clean." First, I use my clipper brush—and please, for the love of all that's holy, use the brush that came with your clippers, not some random paintbrush from the garage. These brushes are designed with specific bristle stiffness to get into those tiny spaces without damaging the blade alignment.

Brush in one direction, always away from the blade assembly. I see people scrubbing back and forth like they're cleaning a grill, and it makes me cringe every time. You're not trying to polish the metal; you're trying to dislodge debris. Think of it more like sweeping a floor than scrubbing a pot.

The Oil Obsession (And Why It Matters More Than You Think)

Here's something that'll blow your mind: most people oil their clippers wrong. They either use too much, too little, or—and this is the worst—they oil them when they're cold. Your clippers need to be running when you oil them. I know it seems counterintuitive, like you're wasting oil, but those blades need to be moving to distribute the lubricant properly.

Three drops. That's it. One on each end of the blade, one in the middle. Let them run for about 20 seconds, then wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. If you're seeing oil dripping down onto your hand, you've used too much. The oil isn't there to create a swimming pool; it's there to create a microscopic barrier between metal surfaces that are moving at incredible speeds.

And please, use actual clipper oil. I've seen people use everything from WD-40 to cooking oil, and it's painful to watch. Clipper oil is specifically formulated to handle high heat and rapid movement without breaking down. That bottle of 3-in-1 oil in your garage? Save it for your squeaky door hinges.

The Deep Clean: When Things Get Serious

Once a week—or after every 5-7 cuts if you're a professional—you need to do what I call the "full monty" cleaning. This is where we separate the blade assembly and really get in there. Now, I'm going to be honest with you: the first time you take apart your clippers, you might feel like you're defusing a bomb. There are springs, tiny screws, and pieces that seem to have a mind of their own.

Before you unscrew anything, take a photo with your phone. I'm serious. Even after all these years, I still occasionally forget which way that tension spring was facing. Your future self will thank you when you're not staring at a pile of parts like it's a jigsaw puzzle.

Remove the blade assembly carefully. On most clippers, this involves loosening two screws. Don't remove them completely—just loosen them enough to slide the blade off. Once it's off, you'll probably be horrified by what you see. That's normal. That crusty, greasy buildup is exactly why we're doing this.

The Blade Cleaning Ritual

For the blades themselves, I've developed a system over the years that works beautifully. First, I use a blade wash solution. You can buy commercial blade wash, but honestly? A mixture of 70% isopropyl alcohol with a tiny bit of clipper oil works just as well. The alcohol dissolves the gunk and evaporates quickly, while the oil prevents the metal from drying out completely.

Submerge just the cutting surfaces of the blade—not the entire assembly—in about a quarter inch of this solution. Let it sit for about 30 seconds, then use an old toothbrush (designated for this purpose only, obviously) to gently scrub the blade teeth. You'll be amazed at what comes off.

Here's a pro tip that took me years to figure out: those supposedly "self-sharpening" blades? They're only self-sharpening if they're clean and properly aligned. All that marketing speak about titanium coating and ceramic cutters means nothing if your blades are caked with debris.

The Body Work: Cleaning the Clipper Housing

While your blades are drying, turn your attention to the clipper body. This is where things get interesting, because different clippers have different needs. If you've got a rotary motor clipper like the old-school Oster 76s, you can be a bit more aggressive with your cleaning. These tanks can handle a good wipe-down with alcohol.

But if you're running magnetic motor clippers? Be gentler. These have more sensitive electronics that don't appreciate moisture. A slightly damp cloth with a tiny bit of alcohol is all you need. Pay special attention to the vents—that's where hair and dust love to accumulate. I use compressed air for this, but be careful not to blow debris further into the machine.

The power cord is something everyone forgets about. Think about it—you're handling that cord with hands that have been touching hair, products, and cleaning solutions all day. Once a month, I wipe down the entire length of my cords with a disinfectant wipe. It's a small thing, but it makes a difference.

Reassembly: The Moment of Truth

Putting everything back together is where patience pays off. Remember that photo you took? Time to use it. When reattaching the blade, the key is alignment. The cutting blade (the smaller one that moves) needs to be perfectly parallel to the guard blade (the larger stationary one). If they're even slightly off, you'll get lines, pulling, or uneven cuts.

Here's something most people don't know: the tension of those blade screws matters immensely. Too tight, and your blades won't move properly, causing the motor to work harder and potentially burn out. Too loose, and you'll get rattling and poor cutting performance. The sweet spot is when the blade is secure but can still be moved slightly with firm pressure.

After reassembly, always test your clippers on a piece of paper or cardboard before using them on actual hair. If they're cutting cleanly without snagging, you're good to go. If not, check your alignment again.

The Disinfection Debate

Let's talk about something that became incredibly relevant in recent years: proper disinfection. Cleaning removes debris; disinfection kills pathogens. They're not the same thing, and you need both.

For professional use, you need an EPA-registered disinfectant that's specifically approved for use on clipper blades. Barbicide is the gold standard, but there are others. The key is contact time—most disinfectants need to stay wet on the surface for at least 60 seconds to be effective. Spraying and immediately wiping defeats the purpose.

For home use, you can get away with 70% isopropyl alcohol, but understand that this isn't hospital-grade disinfection. It's good enough for personal use but might not meet professional standards depending on your local regulations.

The Storage Solution

How you store your clippers matters almost as much as how you clean them. I've seen people throw their expensive clippers in a drawer with other tools, and it physically hurts to witness. Your clippers should be stored in a way that protects the blades and keeps them dry.

If your clippers came with a case or blade guard, use it. If not, invest in one. A simple blade guard costs less than $5 and can extend the life of your blades by years. Store them in a cool, dry place—not in your bathroom where shower humidity can cause rust, and definitely not in direct sunlight where plastic parts can degrade.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with perfect maintenance, clippers can develop issues. If your clippers are leaving lines, it's usually an alignment problem. If they're pulling hair, the blades might be dull or improperly tensioned. If they're running hot, you might have a lubrication issue or a motor problem.

The sound of your clippers tells you a lot. A well-maintained clipper has a consistent, smooth hum. If you hear rattling, grinding, or the pitch changes dramatically under load, something's wrong. Don't ignore these warning signs—they're your clippers crying for help.

The Long Game

I still have a pair of Oster 76s from 1998 that work like new. That's over 25 years of daily use, thousands of haircuts, and they're still going strong. The secret? Consistent, proper maintenance. It's not glamorous, and it's not fun, but it's the difference between buying new clippers every year and having tools that last decades.

Your clippers are an investment, whether you're a professional barber or just someone who likes to keep their fade fresh at home. Treat them with respect, maintain them properly, and they'll serve you faithfully for years to come. The five minutes you spend cleaning them after each use will save you hundreds of dollars and countless headaches down the road.

Remember, in the end, clean clippers aren't just about the tools—they're about pride in your work, respect for your clients (even if that client is yourself), and understanding that true craftsmanship extends to every aspect of what you do, including maintenance.

Authoritative Sources:

Milady's Standard Professional Barbering. 6th ed., Cengage Learning, 2016.

Pivot Point International. Fundamentals of Haircutting. Pivot Point International, 2012.

Scali-Sheahan, Maura. Milady's Standard Professional Barbering. 5th ed., Delmar Cengage Learning, 2011.

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. "List N: Disinfectants for Coronavirus (COVID-19)." EPA.gov, 2023.

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. "Guideline for Disinfection and Sterilization in Healthcare Facilities." CDC.gov, 2019.