How to Clean a Blackstone Griddle: The Real Story Behind Keeping Your Flat Top in Fighting Shape
I'll never forget the first time I absolutely destroyed my Blackstone. Not physically—I mean I turned that beautiful cooking surface into what looked like a rusty shipwreck after just three months of ownership. Standing there with my spatula in hand, staring at the flaking, sticky mess I'd created, I realized I'd been treating this thing all wrong.
The truth about Blackstone griddles is that they're simultaneously the most forgiving and most demanding cooking surfaces you'll ever own. They'll cook anything from pancakes to smash burgers with restaurant-quality results, but neglect them even slightly, and they'll punish you with rust, sticky residue, and food that tastes vaguely of last Tuesday's fish tacos.
The Seasoning Layer: Your Griddle's Soul
Before we dive into cleaning, let's talk about what you're actually cleaning. That dark, glossy surface on a well-maintained Blackstone isn't just "dirt" or "buildup"—it's a polymerized oil layer that's chemically bonded to the steel. This is your griddle's soul, its protective armor, its non-stick coating all rolled into one.
When I first started, I scrubbed my griddle like I was trying to get down to bare metal after every cook. Big mistake. You're not washing dishes here; you're maintaining a living surface that gets better with age—if you treat it right.
The cleaning process changes dramatically depending on whether you're dealing with a brand-new griddle, doing routine maintenance after a cook, or trying to resurrect a neglected flat top. Each scenario demands a different approach, different tools, and most importantly, different expectations.
After-Cook Cleaning: The Daily Ritual
Here's what nobody tells you: the best time to clean your Blackstone is when it's still warm but not scorching hot. I'm talking about that sweet spot around 200-250°F where grease is still liquid but won't send you to the emergency room if water splashes on your hand.
Start by scraping. Not gentle sweeping motions—I mean really get in there with your metal scraper at about a 45-degree angle and push everything toward the grease trap. You'll be amazed at how much crud comes off even after what seemed like a "clean" cook. Those little bits of caramelized onion, the burger drippings, the mysterious black specks—they all need to go.
Now comes the part where people get weird. Water on a hot griddle. Yes, it's going to steam. Yes, it's going to look dramatic. That's the point. Pour a small amount of warm water (never ice cold—thermal shock is real) onto the griddle and watch it bubble and steam. This isn't just theatrics; the steam is lifting debris from the microscopic pores in the metal.
Work in sections. Pour water on one area, let it steam for a few seconds, then scrape toward the grease trap. The combination of heat, water, and mechanical action does 90% of the work for you. Those stubborn spots that won't budge? Hit them with a little more water and let the steam do its thing.
Here's where I diverge from the standard advice you'll read everywhere: I don't use soap on my griddle after every cook. There, I said it. Unless I've cooked something particularly pungent or greasy (looking at you, bacon-wrapped jalapeño poppers), plain water and scraping do the job just fine. The seasoning layer can handle normal cooking residue without chemical intervention.
Once you've scraped everything into the grease trap—and please, for the love of all that's holy, empty that grease trap regularly—it's time for the final wipe-down. Paper towels work, but I've become partial to those blue shop towels. They're more durable and don't leave little paper bits stuck to the surface.
The surface should look clean but not stripped. If you see bare metal anywhere, you've gone too far. A properly cleaned Blackstone after cooking should still have that dark, slightly glossy appearance.
The Oil Finale: More Art Than Science
This is where things get personal. Every Blackstone owner has their oil preference, and they'll defend it like it's their firstborn child. I've tried them all—vegetable oil, canola, flaxseed, avocado, even coconut oil during my experimental phase.
Here's what I've learned: the best oil for post-cook seasoning is the one you'll actually use consistently. That said, I've settled on avocado oil for its high smoke point and neutral flavor. Flaxseed oil creates the hardest seasoning layer, but it's expensive and can get tacky if you use too much.
The key isn't which oil you use—it's how you apply it. The griddle should be warm but cooling down, maybe around 150°F. Too hot and the oil will smoke and potentially turn gummy. Too cool and it won't properly bond to the surface.
Pour a small amount—we're talking maybe a tablespoon for a 36-inch griddle—and spread it thin. Really thin. Thinner than you think. The biggest mistake newcomers make is leaving too much oil on the surface. It should look almost dry when you're done spreading it. If you can see oil pooling anywhere, you've used too much.
Deep Cleaning: When Things Go South
Sometimes life happens. Maybe you forgot to oil your griddle after that last cook. Maybe it sat outside uncovered during a particularly humid week. Maybe your brother-in-law borrowed it and returned it looking like a science experiment. Whatever the reason, sometimes you need to go nuclear.
First, assess the damage. Surface rust that looks like orange dust? That's manageable. Deep pitting or flaking rust? You might need professional help or a full restoration. For most neglect-related issues, though, you can bring it back.
Start with heat. Get that griddle up to about 300°F. This serves two purposes: it makes scraping easier and it opens up the pores in the metal. Now hit it with a grill stone or steel wool. Yes, you're going to remove some seasoning. That's okay—we're in recovery mode here.
Work in circular motions, applying steady pressure. You'll see the rust and gunk coming off, revealing darker metal underneath. Don't expect to get down to shiny steel—that's not the goal. You're just removing the damaged layers.
Once you've scrubbed the entire surface, it's time for what I call "the purge." Crank the heat up to maximum and let it rip for about 10 minutes. You'll see smoke—that's the remaining oils and debris burning off. Open windows, turn on fans, maybe warn the neighbors.
After the smoke show, let it cool down to about 250°F and do a water steam cleaning as described earlier. This removes the debris from your scrubbing session. You might need to repeat this process a couple of times for severely neglected griddles.
The Restoration: Building It Back
Now comes the tedious part: re-seasoning. This isn't like the initial seasoning on a new griddle where you can knock it out in an hour. Restoration seasoning takes time and patience.
Apply your oil of choice in an extremely thin layer. Heat the griddle until the oil starts smoking, then let it smoke for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it cool completely. Repeat this process 3-4 times. Yes, it's boring. Yes, it takes hours. But this is the price of neglect.
Each layer builds on the last, creating that protective barrier that makes Blackstone cooking so enjoyable. Rush this process and you'll be dealing with sticky spots and uneven heating for months.
Seasonal Maintenance: The Long Game
If you live somewhere with actual seasons (my Phoenix friends, this doesn't apply to you), your Blackstone needs different care throughout the year. Winter storage is particularly crucial. I learned this the hard way after my first Minnesota winter left me with a griddle that looked like it had been salvaged from the Titanic.
Before storing for winter, do a deep clean followed by a heavy seasoning session. Then—and this is crucial—apply a thicker layer of oil than normal. I'm not saying pool it on there, but definitely more than your typical post-cook coating. Some people swear by food-grade mineral oil for long-term storage since it doesn't go rancid.
Cover it properly. Those cheap vinyl covers that come with some models? They're better than nothing, but barely. Invest in a quality cover that actually fits. Moisture is the enemy, and a loose cover that flaps in the wind is basically inviting rust to the party.
The Controversial Takes
Here's where I'm going to ruffle some feathers. The Blackstone community has some sacred cows that I think need challenging.
First, the obsession with achieving a "mirror black" finish is overblown. Your griddle is a cooking tool, not a showpiece. A working Blackstone should look used. Those Instagram-perfect, mirror-finish griddles? Their owners probably spend more time cleaning than cooking.
Second, the fear of soap is largely unfounded. Yes, harsh detergents can strip seasoning. But a drop of Dawn in warm water for particularly greasy cooks isn't going to ruin anything. The key is moderation and proper re-oiling afterward.
Third, and this might be the most controversial: you don't need special Blackstone-branded cleaning products. A good metal scraper, some paper towels, oil, and occasionally a grill stone will handle 99% of your cleaning needs. The marketing machine wants you to believe otherwise, but your grandparents managed just fine with basic tools.
The Zen of Griddle Maintenance
After five years of Blackstone ownership, I've come to see cleaning as part of the cooking process, not a chore that follows it. There's something meditative about scraping a hot griddle, watching the steam rise, seeing the surface return to its dark, seasoned glory.
The ritual becomes automatic. Scrape while hot. Steam with water. Wipe clean. Oil lightly. Cover when cool. It takes maybe 10 minutes, but those 10 minutes ensure your next cook will be as good as your last.
I've cooked on griddles that were babied—cleaned with surgical precision after every use, seasoned religiously, covered immediately. I've also cooked on griddles that looked like they'd been through a war. You know what? Both made great food. The difference was in the effort required during cooking and the lifespan of the equipment.
Final Thoughts
Your Blackstone doesn't need to be perfect. It needs to be functional. It needs to be protected from rust. It needs to be clean enough that today's breakfast doesn't taste like yesterday's fish. Beyond that, you're overthinking it.
The best advice I can give? Cook on it often. A frequently used griddle is a happy griddle. The oils from your cooking, the constant heating and cooling, the regular cleaning—they all contribute to building that perfect cooking surface.
Don't baby it, but don't neglect it. Find your rhythm, develop your own quirks and preferences. Maybe you'll become a flaxseed oil devotee. Maybe you'll discover that bacon grease makes the best seasoning (it doesn't, but you do you). The point is to use it, enjoy it, and keep it clean enough to use again tomorrow.
Because at the end of the day, that's what this is all about. Not achieving some perfect patina or following some rigid cleaning protocol. It's about having a reliable cooking surface that's ready when you are, whether that's for Saturday morning pancakes or Tuesday night smash burgers.
Clean it because you respect the tool. Oil it because you want it to last. But most importantly, cook on it because that's what it's for.
Authoritative Sources:
Lodge Cast Iron. The Lodge Cast Iron Cookbook: A Treasury of Timeless, Delicious Recipes. Oxmoor House, 2012.
McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. Scribner, 2004.
Raichlen, Steven. The Barbecue! Bible. Workman Publishing, 2008.
United States Department of Agriculture. "Food Safety and Inspection Service: Safe Minimum Internal Temperature Chart." USDA.gov, 2023.