How to Change a Kitchen Sink Faucet Without Losing Your Mind (Or Flooding Your Kitchen)

Plumbing projects have this peculiar way of revealing themselves at the worst possible moments. Maybe you're hosting dinner next week and that persistent drip has finally evolved into a full-blown leak, or perhaps you've simply grown tired of wrestling with handles that require the grip strength of a professional arm wrestler just to get a trickle of water. Whatever brought you here, replacing a kitchen faucet sits in that sweet spot of home improvement tasks—intimidating enough to make you consider calling a professional, yet absolutely achievable with some patience and the right approach.

I've replaced dozens of faucets over the years, and I'll let you in on something: the hardest part isn't the actual installation. It's the psychological warfare that happens when you're wedged under a sink, water dripping on your forehead, trying to loosen a nut that hasn't moved since the Reagan administration. But here's what those YouTube tutorials won't tell you—every single person who's done this job has had that moment of doubt. The difference between success and a $300 plumber's bill often comes down to taking a deep breath and remembering that faucets are fundamentally simple devices.

The Pre-Game: What You Actually Need

Before you even think about touching that old faucet, let's talk tools. You'll need an adjustable wrench (two is better), channel-lock pliers, a basin wrench (trust me on this one—it's the weird-looking tool that will save your sanity), plumber's putty or silicone caulk, and Teflon tape. Some folks will tell you that you can get by without a basin wrench. These people either have the flexibility of a circus performer or enjoy suffering.

Now, about choosing your new faucet—this is where people often stumble. Measure the distance between your sink holes before you fall in love with that gorgeous bridge faucet that won't fit your setup. Standard spacing is either 4 or 8 inches on center, though single-hole models are increasingly popular. And here's a tip from someone who learned the hard way: if your sink sits near a window, measure the clearance. Nothing quite matches the disappointment of installing a beautiful high-arc faucet only to discover it blocks your window from opening.

The Moment of Truth: Shutting Things Down

Water shut-off valves are like that friend who's reliable 90% of the time—great until they're not. Before you start, turn off both hot and cold valves under the sink. Turn them clockwise until they stop, but don't force them. If they won't budge or if you hear ominous creaking, you might be dealing with valves that haven't been touched in decades. In that case, shut off the main water supply to your house. Yes, it's more dramatic, but it beats dealing with a geyser in your kitchen.

Here's something I wish someone had told me early on: after shutting off the water, open the faucet to release pressure and drain any remaining water. Keep a bucket and towels handy anyway. Plumbing has a sense of humor, and that humor usually involves unexpected water appearing at inopportune moments.

The Archaeology Phase: Removing the Old Faucet

Removing an old faucet is part demolition, part archaeology. You're going to encounter things under there—mysterious gunk, possible corrosion, maybe even that earring you lost three years ago. Start by disconnecting the supply lines. These are the flexible tubes running from your shut-off valves to the faucet. Water will drip out, hence the bucket.

The mounting nuts holding your faucet in place are where things get interesting. They're typically located in the most awkward position possible, because apparently, sink designers have a sadistic streak. This is where that basin wrench earns its keep. Its long handle and swiveling jaw can reach spots your regular wrench can't. Counter-clockwise to loosen, and don't be surprised if you need to apply some penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes.

Sometimes, especially with older faucets, these nuts are corroded beyond reason. I once spent an hour on a single nut, alternating between gentle persuasion and barely contained rage. If you find yourself in this situation, a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade can be your nuclear option. Just be careful not to damage the sink itself.

The Clean Slate: Prep Work That Matters

With the old faucet removed, you're staring at a crime scene of old putty, mineral deposits, and general griminess. This is not the time to rush. Clean everything thoroughly. Scrape off old putty with a plastic scraper (metal can scratch your sink), and use a mild abrasive cleaner for stubborn deposits.

This cleaning phase serves two purposes: it ensures your new faucet sits properly and gives you time to inspect your sink's condition. Look for cracks, especially around the mounting holes. Check if the sink is level—a slightly tilted sink can make your new faucet look crooked no matter how carefully you install it.

Installation: Where Patience Pays Dividends

Installing the new faucet starts with reading the instructions. I know, I know—real DIYers don't need instructions, right? Wrong. Every manufacturer has their quirks, and five minutes of reading can save you from that sinking feeling when you realize you've installed something backwards.

Most modern faucets come with a gasket that sits between the faucet base and sink, but I still like to use a thin bead of silicone caulk for extra insurance against water infiltration. Call me old-fashioned, but I've seen too many "watertight" gaskets fail over time.

Feed the supply lines through the appropriate holes before setting the faucet in place. This sounds obvious until you're trying to thread them through after the fact, wondering why you're fighting physics. Once positioned, the real fun begins underneath.

The mounting system varies by manufacturer, but the principle remains the same: you're securing the faucet from below. Some use a mounting plate with screws, others use individual nuts, and some have elaborate bracket systems that look like they were designed by someone who really enjoyed playing with Erector Sets as a kid. Whatever system you're dealing with, the key is to tighten evenly. Cranking down one side completely before touching the other is a recipe for a crooked faucet or, worse, a cracked sink.

The Supply Line Tango

Connecting supply lines should be straightforward, but it's where many people encounter their first leak. Here's the thing about supply line connections: they need to be tight, but not "I'm trying to fuse metal" tight. The rubber washers inside the connections do the sealing work; your job is just to compress them adequately.

Start threading by hand to ensure you're not cross-threading (crossing threads is like forcing a square peg into a round hole—it might go in, but it's not going to end well). Once hand-tight, use your wrench for another quarter to half turn. If you see the supply line starting to twist or deform, you've gone too far.

A word about supply line length: too short is obviously a problem, but too long isn't great either. Excess line can kink or get caught on items you store under the sink. If your new lines are significantly longer than needed, loop them gently rather than forcing sharp bends.

The Moment of Truth: Testing Your Work

Before you clear away your tools and declare victory, comes the testing phase. Turn the shut-off valves back on slowly while watching for leaks. I mean really watching—get a flashlight and examine every connection. Sometimes leaks start as barely visible moisture that won't become obvious drips until you're enjoying dinner upstairs.

Run both hot and cold water, checking the stream and looking for any wobbling in the faucet base. Test the sprayer if you have one. Let everything run for a good five minutes. This isn't paranoia; it's experience talking. I once had a supply line connection that seemed perfect until hot water caused just enough expansion to create a slow leak.

The Aftermath: Living With Your Decision

After living with numerous faucets, I've learned that the best installation is one you don't think about. If you find yourself admiring your handiwork every time you wash dishes, great. But if you're constantly adjusting the handle because it's slightly off, or if you hear a faint drip at 2 AM, address it now. Small annoyances have a way of becoming big regrets.

One final thought: keep your old faucet's documentation and any extra parts from the new one. Store them in a labeled bag under the sink. Future you (or the next homeowner) will appreciate knowing the model number when it's time for repairs or replacement parts.

Changing a kitchen faucet isn't just about following steps—it's about understanding that every house, every sink, every set of corroded nuts has its own personality. Some installations go smoothly, others fight you every step of the way. The satisfaction comes not from a perfect process, but from solving problems as they arise and ending up with a functional, leak-free faucet that you installed yourself. And if you find yourself under that sink, water dripping on your face, wondering why you didn't just call a plumber—remember that everyone who's successfully changed a faucet has been exactly where you are. The only difference is they kept going.

Authoritative Sources:

"Plumbing: Complete Projects for the Home." Creative Homeowner, 2019.

Cauldwell, Rex. "Inspecting a House: A Guide for Buyers, Owners, and Renovators." The Taunton Press, 2018.

"Residential Plumbing Code Requirements." International Code Council. icc-safe.org/codes-tech-support/codes/2021-i-codes/ipc/

Sweet, Fay. "The Complete Guide to Plumbing." Cool Springs Press, 2020.

"Water Supply Systems and Fixtures." U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development. hud.gov/program_offices/healthy_homes/healthyhomes/plumbing